Jan-Klod Ellena - Jean-Claude Ellena

Jan-Klod Ellenaning portreti

Jan-Klod Ellena (1947 yilda tug'ilgan, Grass, Frantsiya ) a Frantsuzcha parfyumeriya va yozuvchi.

Karyera

Yoshligida Ellena tanladi yasemin parfyumeriya vositalariga sotish uchun Grassadagi buvisi bilan. Og'ir ishlardan boshlab u fabrikada shogird bo'ldi efir moylari ishlab chiqaruvchi Antuan Chiris Grassada 16 yoshida tungi smena. U esladi: «Boshqa efir moylari qatorida biz juda ko'p narsalarni qildik eman moxi Va distillatgichni qo'yganimdan keyin, uning karavotiga yotib uxlardim ».[1]

1968 yilda u eng qadimgi parfyumeriya fabrikalaridan biri bo'lgan Givaudanning yangi tashkil etilgan parfyumeriya maktabida birinchi talaba bo'ldi. Jeneva, Shveytsariya. 1976 yilda Givaudandan yana ikkita parfyumeriya bilan birga Grassedagi Lautierga jo'nab ketdi. 1983 yilda u Givaudan Parijga bosh parfyumer va Roure-Givandan sifatida qo'shildi va keyin Parijdagi Haarmaan & Reimerda ishladi (2003 yilda Dragoco bilan birlashib Symrise tashkil etdi). 1990 yilda u tashkilotning asoschilaridan biriga aylandi Osmotek, asoslangan xalqaro hidlar arxivi Versal.[2]

Ellenaga kashshof parfyumeriya katta ta'sir ko'rsatdi Edmond Roudnitska, xususan, uning otasi tomonidan berilgan jurnaldagi "Yosh parfyumeriyaga maslahat" maqolasi.[3]

2004 yildan beri u shunday bo'ldi Hermes eksklyuziv parfyumeriya,[4] tomonidan tayinlangan Jan-Lui Dyuma va Véronique Gautier. U bir qator yirik parfyumeriya uylari uchun atirlar yaratgan Turli xil kompaniya, u Hermesga qo'shilishidan oldin asos solgan. Uning qizi Selin Ellena endi "Turli xil kompaniya" da ijod qiladi.

2005 yilda Ellena Hermes uchun Un Jardin sur le Nilni yaratdi. Ushbu xushbo'y hidning yaratilishidagi voqea kitobning mavzusi edi Ajoyib hid: Parij va Nyu-Yorkdagi parfyumeriya sanoatida bir yil tomonidan Chandler Burr.[5] Bundan tashqari, cheklangan shakldagi hikoya va boshqa hidlar haqidagi ma'lumotlar, shuningdek uning tarjimai holi nashr etilgan Parfyumeriya: Xidi Alkimyosi. Shuningdek, u "Burun kundaligi: parfyumer hayotidagi bir yil" ning yozuvchisi.

Taniqli asarlar

Bolgariya uchun

  • Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert (1992)
  • Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Extrême (1996)

Frederik Malle uchun

  • Angéliques sous la Pluie (2000)
  • Köln Bigarade (2001)
  • Bigarade Concentrée (2002)
  • L'Eau d'Hiver (2003)
  • Rose & Cuir (2019)

Hermes uchun

  • Hermessence to'plami (faqat ichida Hermes do'konlar)
    • Rose Ikebana (2004)
    • Osmanthe Yunnan (2005)
    • Brin de Reglisse (2007)
    • Vetiver Tonka (2004)
    • Vanil Galante (2009)
    • Paprika Brasil (2006)
    • Santal Massoiya (2011)
    • Ambre Narguile (2004)
    • Iris Ukiyoé (2010)
    • Poivre Samarcande (2006)
    • Épice Marine (2013)
    • Cuir d`Ange (2014)
    • Muguet chinni (2016)
  • Rokabar (1998), Gilles Romey va Bernard Burjua bilan
  • Un Jardin en Mediterranée (2003)
  • Un Jardin sur le Nil (2005)
  • Elixir des Merveilles (2006)
  • Ter-d'Hermes (2006)
  • Kelly Calèche (2007)
  • Un Jardin après la Mousson (2008)
  • Kelly Calèche Parfyum (2008)
  • Kelly Calèche Parfyum (2009)
  • Eau de Gentiane Blanche (2009)
  • Eau de Pamplemousse Rose (2009)
  • Eau Claire des Merveilles (2010)
  • Voyage d'Hermès (2010)
  • Un Jardin sur le Toit (2011)
  • Voyage d'Hermes parfyum (2012)
  • Jour d'Hermes (2012)
  • L'Ambre des Merveilles (2012)
  • Bel Ami Vetiver (2013)
  • Jour d'Hermes Extrait de Parfum (2013)
  • Jour d'Hermes Absolue (2014)
  • Le Jardin de Monsyur Li (2015)
  • Eau de Neroli Dore (2016)

L'Artisan Parfumeur uchun

  • L'Eau d'Ambre (1978)
  • La Haie Fleurie du Hameau (1982)
  • Ambre Extrême (2001)
  • Bois Farin (2003)

Van Cleef & Arpels uchun

  • Birinchi (1976)
  • Miss Arpels (1994)

Turli xil kompaniyalar uchun

  • Bois d'Iris (2000)
  • Osmantus (2001)
  • Rose Poivrée (2001)
  • Bergamote (sobiq ilohiy Bergamote) (2003)

Perris Monte Karlo uchun

  • Rouz de May (2019)
  • Jasmin de Pays (2019)
  • Mimosa Tanneron (2020)
  • Lavande Romeyn (2020)

Boshqalar

Germesdan keyin

Ellena 2016 yilda Hermesni tark etdi va Shveytsariyada tug'ilgan kimyogar va parfyumer Kristin Nagel uni Germes uyidagi parfyumer sifatida qayta joylashtirdi.[6] Ellenaning Hermes uchun so'nggi hidlari Eau de Néroli Doré va Hermessence Muguet Porcelaine edi.

2018 yilda Ellena Nyu-Yorkdagi yosh parfyumer sifatida birinchi topshirig'ini 1973 yilda imzolagan Essence Rare parfyumini yaratish uchun Houbigant House bilan hamkorlik qildi. [7]

Ellena Editions de Parfum Frederic Malle uchun ijodiga qaytdi, uning so'nggi ishi - "Rose & Cuir", 2019 yil sentyabr oyida debyut qildi.[8] Shuningdek u Le Couvent des Minimes brendining olfakt direktori bo'ldi.[9]

2019 yilda Ellena Perris Monte Karlo bilan doimiy hamkorlikni boshladi, u o'zi uchun "Grass to'plami" ni yaratdi,[10] Pays-de-Grassada parfyumeriya san'ati tarixi va noyob mahoratiga hurmat ko'rsatadigan eksklyuziv atirlar to'plami.

Shaxsiy hayot

Ellenaning otasi, akasi va qizi Selin ham parfyumerlardir.[3] O'zining imzosi bilan tanilgan oq ko'ylaklar bilan Ellenaning o'zi hech qachon parfyumeriya va odekolon kiymaydi, uning qizi Celine Hermès Home Fragrance Collection dizaynini yaratdi.

Adabiyotlar

  1. ^ Aleksandra Marshal, "Hermes parfyumeriyasi". The Wall Street Journal, 2009 yil 5 mart.
  2. ^ Ellena, Jan-Klod. "Classification et Osmothèque - Séance Société Française des Parfumeurs (1990 yil 17-dekabr)". Osmothèque: La mémoire vivante des parfums. Parij: Frantsiyais du Parfum Comité. 1990. Chop etish.
  3. ^ a b Jan-Klod Ellena, Parfyumeriya: Xidi Alkimyosi. Nyu-York: Arja, 2011 yil. ISBN  1-61145-330-5 (Ingliz tilidagi tarjimasi Parfyum. To'plam: Que sais-je? Parij: Presses Universitaires de France - PUF, 2007 yil. ISBN  978-2-13-056082-1)
  4. ^ Vayl, Jennifer (2013 yil 13-dekabr). "Parfyumer Kristin Nagel Hermesga qo'shilish uchun". WWD. Olingan 13 dekabr 2013.
  5. ^ Chandler Burr, Ajoyib hid: Parij va Nyu-Yorkdagi parfyumeriya sanoatida bir yil. Nyu-York: Genri Xolt va Co., 2008. ISBN  0-8050-8037-6
  6. ^ Xou, Ketlin. "Hermesning birinchi ayol parfyumeriyasi erkaklar ustunlik qiladigan parfyumeriya dunyosiga kirib borishda". Kesish. Olingan 18 oktyabr 2019.
  7. ^ "Gubigant mohiyati noyob, usta parfyumer Jan-Klod Ellena tomonidan yaratilgan 2018".
  8. ^ "Rose & Cuir | Yangi Atir-upa | Frederik Malle Onlayn". Frederik Malle. Olingan 18 oktyabr 2019.
  9. ^ "Le Couvent des Minimes Les Parfums Singulieres ~ yangi hidlar :: Now Smell this". nstperfume.com. Olingan 18 oktyabr 2019.
  10. ^ "Voyage de Grasse - Taiti avec Perris Monte Carlo".

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