Hanfu - Hanfu

Boshqa maqsadlar uchun qarang Hanfu (ajralish).
12-asrning Xitoy rasmlari Xan Xizayning tungi shov-shuvlari (韓 熙 載 夜宴 圖) musiqachilarning liboslarini namoyish etish
Hanfu
Hanfu (xitoycha belgilar) .png
"Hanfu" soddalashtirilgan (yuqori) va an'anaviy (pastki) xitoycha belgilarda
Soddalashtirilgan xitoy tili汉 服
An'anaviy xitoy漢 服
To'g'ridan-to'g'ri ma'no"Xan xitoylari kiyim-kechak "

Hanfu kiyinishning tarixiy uslublari uchun ishlatiladigan atama Xitoy tomonidan Xan xitoylari. An'anaga ko'ra hanfu yuqori kiyim sifatida kiyiladigan xalat yoki ko'ylakdan iborat bo'lib, odatda pastki kiyim sifatida egiluvchan yubka bilan. Keyingi Xan sulolasi, ushbu kiyim to'qimachilik mahsulotlarini ishlab chiqarishning bir qator murakkab texnikasini, xususan ishlab chiqarish uchun ishlatiladigan matolarni o'z ichiga olgan turli uslublarda rivojlangan edi. ipak va begona madaniyatlardan bir qator elementlarni o'zlashtirgan.[1]

Tarix

A da topilgan erkak figurasining devorga bo'yalgan rasmlari G'arbiy Xan sulolasi (miloddan avvalgi 206 - milodiy 8) qabr Chin-Syan okrugi

Xan kiyimlari uch ming yillik tarixga ega bo'lgan xan xitoyliklarning barcha an'anaviy kiyim-kechak tasniflarini o'z ichiga oladi.[2][3] O'z tarixining boshidanoq Xan kiyimlari (ayniqsa elita doiralarida) ajralmas edi ipak, deb taxmin qilingan Sariq imperatorniki sherik, Leyzu. The Shang sulolasi (miloddan avvalgi 1600 yil - miloddan avvalgi 1000 yil), tarixiy xitoylik kiyim-kechaklarni ishlab chiqardi; u a dan iborat edi yi, tor qisma bilan bog'langan, tizzagacha uzun ko'ylak va oyoq Bilagi zo'r uzun yubka, deyiladi chang, bilan kiyiladi bixi, tizzagacha etib kelgan mato uzunligi. O'sha paytdagi texnologiya darajasi tufayli jonli asosiy ranglar va yashil ranglardan foydalanilgan.

A Xan sulolasi ko'k ov kiyimidagi odamning freskasi.
Mural Dahuting marhumlarning qabrlari Sharqiy Xan sulolasi (Milodiy 25-220), yilda Chjenchjou, Xenan, Xitoy.

Ergashadigan sulola Shang, G'arbiy Chjou sulolasi, kiyim-kechakni meridian sifatida ishlatadigan qat'iy ierarxik jamiyatni o'rnatdi va muqarrar ravishda o'z darajasining balandligi kostyumning bezakliligiga ta'sir qildi. Bunday markerlarga etakning uzunligi, yengning kengligi va bezak darajasi kiritilgan. Ushbu sinfga yo'naltirilgan ishlanmalardan tashqari, xan xitoycha kiyimlar erkinlashdi, keng yenglar va jade bezaklari osib qo'yilgan kamarga osilgan edi. yi yopiq. The yi sifatida tanilgan uslubda mohiyatan o'ralgan edi jiaoling yourenyoki o'ng tomonni chapdan oldinroq o'ralgan holda, o'ng qo'l egasiga boshida katta qiyinchilik tug'dirganligi sababli (Zhongyuan aholisi tushkunlikka tushgan chap qo'l boshqa ko'plab tarixiy madaniyatlar singari, uni g'ayritabiiy, varvar, madaniyatsiz va baxtsiz deb hisoblaydi).

Xan xitoy kiyimlari ko'plab qo'shni madaniyatlarning an'anaviy kiyimlariga, masalan, yapon kimonosiga ta'sir ko'rsatdi[4][5] va Vetnamliklar áo giao lĩnh.[6][7] Xan xitoy kiyimlari elementlariga qo'shni madaniy kiyimlar, ayniqsa shimolda joylashgan ko'chmanchi xalqlar va g'arbda O'rta Osiyo madaniyatlari Ipak yo'li orqali ta'sir ko'rsatgan.[8][9]

Tang sulolasi

Shuningdek qarang: Qadimgi Xitoyda mashhur moda

The Tang sulolasi san'at, ilm-fan va iqtisodiyot rivojlanib borayotgan Xitoy tarixidagi oltin asrni anglatadi. Ayollarning kiyinishi va shaxsiy bezaklari bu davrning yangi ko'rinishini aks ettirdi, bu misli ko'rilmagan savdo-sotiq va Xitoy chegaralariga begona madaniyatlar va falsafalar bilan o'zaro aloqalarni ko'rdi. Xan va Suy sulolalari kabi avvalgilarining kiyimlarini davom ettirsa ham, Tang davrida modaga kosmopolit madaniyati va san'ati ham ta'sir ko'rsatgan. Ilgari xitoylik ayollarga qadimgi Konfutsiy kodeksi tomonidan mahkam o'ralgan, yashirin kiyinish taqiqlangan bo'lsa, Tan sulolasidagi ayollar kiyimi asta-sekin erkinlashib, torayib, hatto ochiqroq bo'lib qoldi.[10] Tang sulolasi xan xitoylari tomonidan chet el madaniyati elementlarini xitoylik amaliyot bilan qabul qilish va sinxronlashtirishni ham ko'rgan. Tang Xitoyida keng tarqalgan begona ta'sirlarga madaniyatlar kiradi Gandxara, Turkiston, Fors va Gretsiya. Ushbu madaniyatlarning uslubiy ta'sirlari tanga xos kiyimlarga qo'shilib, alohida madaniyatga ega bo'lmagan.[11]

Ning rasm Tang sulolasi rassom tomonidan it bilan o'ynayotgan ayollar Chjou Fang, 8-asr.

Tang imperatori Gaozong ayollarga burnoozga o'xshash kiyim turini kiyish, bosh va tanani faqat ko'rish uchun yoriq bilan yopishni buyurdi. Bu jamoat odob-axloq qoidalarini ta'minlash uchun ayollarning erkaklar tomonidan ko'rilishini to'xtatish edi. Ayollar faqat yuzni ko'rsatadigan qalpoqcha yoki boshlarini yon tomonlarini yopib turadigan, keng hoshiyali shapka, parda qopqog'iga osilgan pardani kiyib yurishgan. Ammo Gaozong bulardan qoniqmadi, chunki ular yuzni ko'rsatishga ruxsat berishdi va u burnoozning qaytib kelib, yuzini yopishini xohladi.[12][13] Pardali shlyapadagi g'ilof g'arbda Tuyuhun etnik ozchiligidan qabul qilingan va erkaklarning ayollarni ko'rishini to'xtatish uchun ishlatilgan.[14][15] Tan sulolasi pardalari ayollarning yuzi va bo'yinlarini yopib turardi.[16] Song sulolasi ayollari vujudi barbar bo'lganiga qaramay, tanasi va tanasining yuqori qismini qoplagan ushbu Tang sulolasining ayollar pardasini kiyishda davom etishdi.[17] Rong va Yi barbarlaridan kelib chiqqan butun tana pardasini Sui sulolasi davrida zodagon va aristratik oilalarga mansub xitoylik ayollar kiyib yurishgan va Tang sulolasi davrida ayollarga uni kiyib yurish uchun qonunlar qo'llanilgan. faqat bosh va yuzni qoplagan. Bu musofirlarni ayollarni ko'rishni va ularni mulkdor deb bilishlarini to'xtatish edi.[18] Butun tanadagi milya pardasi otlarga minadigan ayollar uchun edi. Veymao ham humao (varvarcha shlyapa) deb nomlangan.[19] Suy va Tan sulolalarida ayollar kiygan parda g'arbiy mintaqalardan kelib chiqishi chet eldan bo'lgan.[20] Tan sulolasining zodagon ayollari pardani kiyib yurishgan, Yongxuiylar hukmronlik qilgandan keyin esa shlyapa kiyib olganlar.[21][22][23]

Song, Liao, G'arbiy Xia, Jin va Yuan sulolasi

Shuningdek qarang: Qadimgi Xitoyda mashhur moda
Qo'shiq davridagi rasm Xan imperatori Ven yilda Byanfu.

Tan sulolasining ba'zi bir xususiyatlari, masalan, sud odatlari kabi. Qo'shiq saroyi urf-odatlari ko'pincha qora charm poyabzal va bosh kiyimlar bilan qizil kiyimlardan foydalanadilar. Qazilgan barcha kiyimlarning yoqa qirralari va yeng qirralari dantel yoki naqshinkor naqshlar bilan bezatilgan. Bunday kiyimlar pion, kameliya, olxo'ri gullari va nilufar va boshqalar naqshlari bilan bezatilgan edi. Song Empresslar ko'pincha yuzlarida (yonoqning ikki tomonida, qolgan ikkitasi qoshning yonida, ikkinchisida) o'ziga xos zargarlik buyumlariga o'xshash belgilar bor edi. peshona). Song liboslarining ayrimlari avvalgi sulolalar bilan o'xshashliklarga ega bo'lsa-da, ba'zi o'ziga xos xususiyatlar uni boshqalaridan ajratib turadi. Ko'plab qo'shiq kiyimlari Yuan va Mingga kiradi.[24]Song sulolasi davrida ayollar uchun keng tarqalgan kiyim uslublaridan biri bu edi Beizi (褙 子), odatda ko'ylak yoki ko'ylagi deb hisoblangan va Ru yoki Ku bilan mos kelishi mumkin. Beyzining ikki kattaligi bor: kalta - toj suyagining uzunligi va uzunroq tizzagacha cho'zilgan.[25]

Tangut G'arbiy Xia tonzuridan farqli o'laroq, yurgan soch turmagi tojni oldirish bilan birga sulola imperatori ixtirosi emas, balki Jin hukmronligiga bo'ysunganligini ko'rsatadigan yurishgan soch turmagi edi. Jurxenliklarning navbatida turishi va soch oldirish uslubi jinlardagi xitoyliklarga qo'llanilmadi, chunki bu birinchi urinish Jurxen qadriyatlariga tanbeh bo'ldi.[26] Jin birinchi navbatda Tszindagi Xan aholisiga yurchining soch turmagi va kiyimlarini o'rnatishga urindi, ammo buyruq qaytarib olindi. Shuningdek, ular o'zaro nikohni taqiqlashdi.[27]

Manchu yurxenlari navbatda turar edilar, mo'g'ul erkaklar esa sochlarini quloqlari orqasida supurib, ularga o'ralgan edilar, turk erkaklar sochlari bo'shashgan va xionnuliklar sochlarini to'qishgan. Kidan Erkaklar ibodatxonalaridan soch o'sgan, ammo boshlarining tojini oldirganlar. Liao sulolasida yashovchi xan xitoylik erkaklar manjurcha soch turmagi kiyishni buyurgan Tsin sulolasidan farqli o'laroq, kidanlar o'zlarining etnik xususiyatlarini ajratib ko'rsatish uchun kiyib olgan qirilgan kidan sochlarini kiyishlari shart emas edi.[28] Kidanlik erkaklar har bir quloq oldida peshonaning har ikki tomonida faqat ikkita alohida soch turmaklarini boshlarini oldirish paytida qoldirishgan. Kitan kigiz bosh kiyimlarini, mo'ynali kiyimlarni va jun matolarni kiyib yurar, Liao imperatori Xan va Kidan kiyimlarini almashtirar edi.[29] Kitan amaldorlari peshonalari atrofida soch turmalarni topishda oltin bezaklar bilan bezatilgan lentalarni ishlatib, Ye Longli (Yeh Lung-li) Qidan Guozhi (Ch'i-tan kuo-chih) ga ko'ra boshlarini namat bosh kiyimlari bilan yopib qo'yishgan. Kidan uzun qirralarni va soqol pashtalarini kiygan.[30] Kidan soch turmagidan yasalgan mozor rasmlarida bo'yin va peshonaning yonida sochlarning qolgan qismi taralgan holda ko'rsatiladi.[31] Faqatgina ibodatxonalarda toj oldirilganda sochlar qoldirildi.[32] Kitan deb ilgari tanilgan chavandozlarning rasmida kitan kiyimlari va soch turmagi yo'qligi mutaxassislarning o'zlarini iddao qilishlariga shubha uyg'otdi.[33] Kidan erkaklari sochlarini peshonalariga osib qo'ygan mayda jabduqlariga turli naqshlar taqib, sinflarni farqlashlari mumkin edi. Ular vaqti-vaqti bilan peshonaning chekkalari bilan basharalarni kiyib, barcha peshonalarini oldirishgan.[34] Ba'zi bir Xan erkaklar Xan kiyimlarini Kitan etiklari va Xitan kiyimlari bilan Kitan kiyimlari bilan Kitan etiklari va Xitan kiyimlarini kiyib olib, aralashtirdilar yoki aralashtirdilar. Boshqa tomondan, xan ayollari Kitan libosini qabul qilmagan va Xan libosini kiyishda davom etishgan.[35][36]

Xan bo'lmagan ayollar, masalan, O'rta Osiyo ayollari Xan liboslarini qabul qilar edilar, erkaklar esa Tang sulolasi davrida bo'lmagan. Liao sulolasida Kitan amaldorlari va Liao imperatori Kitanlar kiyimlarini kiyib yurishgan, ammo Xan xitoylik amaldorlari va Liao imperatori Song kiyimlarini (Xan kiyimlari) kiyishgan. Liao'da Xang uslubidagi Tang va Song sulolasi kiyimlari va Kidan kiyimlari bo'lgan. Kitan ayollari ham, Liao shahridagi xitoylik ayollar ham Xan uslubidagi Tang-Song ko'ylagini kiyishgan.[37]

Song sulolasi drama aktyorlaridan tashqari odamlarga Jurchen va Kitan diaodun leggini kiyishni taqiqladi. Yuan sulolasi teatrida zaju drama aktyorlari Jurxendan Kitanga, Mo'g'ulga, Song Xan Xitoy kiyimlariga qadar turli xil kiyimlarni kiyishdi. Ming sulolasi ko'plab mo'g'ul kiyimlariga ega edi va madaniy jihatlar bekor qilingan va Tang sulolasi uslubidagi xan xitoy kiyimlari qo'llanilgan.[38]

  • Otliqlar

  • Liao otliqlari dam olish holatida

  • Liao ovchilari

  • Khitan.jpg

  • Liao ovqat pishiradi

  • Kidanlik yigitlar va qizlar

  • Kidan soch turmagi

  • Qora-kidanlik odam. JPG

  • Kidan ayollari

  • Kidan ayollari

  • Xotan ayol

  • A Shimoliy Qi Lou Rui (婁 a) maqbarasidan darvoza qo'riqchisining sulolasi devorlari.

  • A Qo'shiq davri devor devorida topilgan qabrdan topilgan yo'lovchining kundalik hayoti manzarasi tasvirlangan Dengfeng.

Min sulolasi

A portretli rasm ning Nikolas Trigault rasmda ko'rsatilgandek bir xil kostyum kiygan deb ishoniladi. Rubensning ustaxonasi tomonidan.

Ga ko'ra Ning haqiqiy yozuvlari Xongvu imperatori (太祖 實錄, sud tarixchilari tomonidan Hongvu imperatorining uning hukmronligi davrida kundalik faoliyatini qayd etgan batafsil rasmiy hisobot.), Min sulolasi tashkil topgandan ko'p o'tmay, "Hongvu davrining birinchi yilining ikkinchi oyida (milodiy 1368 yil 29-fevral) Renzi kunida Hongvu imperatori barcha kiyim-kechak va bosh kiyimlarning standartlari bo'yicha tiklanishi to'g'risida qaror chiqardi. Tang, barcha fuqarolar sochlarini boshlariga yig'ib oladilar, mansabdor shaxslar Wu Sha Mao (qora matolardan tikilgan shapka), yumaloq kiyimlar, kamar va qora botinka kiyadilar." ("洪武 元年 二月 壬子 ... 至 是 ， 悉 命 復 衣冠 如 制 制 ， 士民 皆 束 髮 於 於 頂 ， 官 則 ， 圓領 袍 ， 束帶 ， 靴。。"Tan kiyimlari tizimini butun Tang sulolasi davridagi holatiga qaytarish uchun qilingan urinish Yuan sulolasini mag'lubiyatga uchratganidan keyin Xan urf-odatlari va madaniy o'ziga xosligini tiklashni anglatuvchi asos soluvchi imperatorning ishorasi edi. Biroq, mo'g'ullarning zamonaviy liboslari, buyumlari va bosh kiyimlari ba'zida Ming imperatorlari Hongvu va Zhende kabi Mingning dastlabki royallari tomonidan ishlatilgan.[9][39]

Ming sulolasi, shuningdek, ko'plab xitoylik sulolalar singari kiyim-kechaklarga ko'plab o'zgarishlar kiritdi. Ular metall tugmalarni amalga oshirdilar va yoqa Song sulolasining nosimmetrik turidan (960-1279) asosiy dumaloq turga o'tdi. Tan sulolasi kostyumi bilan taqqoslaganda, Min sulolasidagi ustki kiyimning pastki etakka nisbati sezilarli darajada teskari edi. Yuqori tashqi kiyim qisqaroq va pastki kiyim uzunroq bo'lganligi sababli, ko'ylagi ochiq etak uzunligini qisqartirish uchun asta-sekin uzunroq bo'ldi. Ming sulolasining o'rtalaridagi yosh xonimlar odatda ushbu jiletlarda kiyinishni afzal ko'rishgan. Tsing sulolasidagi ko'ylaklar Yuan sulolasiga tegishli bo'lgan kiyimlardan o'zgartirildi. Ming sulolasi davrida Konfutsiy kodlari va ideallari ommalashgan va bu kiyimga sezilarli ta'sir ko'rsatgan.[40]

Xan xitoylar Vetnamlarni boshqargan paytda Vetnamning to'rtinchi xitoylik hukmronligi tufayli Min sulolasi davomida zabt etish Ming-Hồ urushi ular qisqa sochli vetnamliklarga uzun sochlar kiygan xan xitoylik uslubini joriy qildi. Vetnamliklarga qirqishni to'xtatish, aksincha sochlarini uzun qilib o'stirish va xitoylik xitoy kiyimlariga o'tishni faqat bir oy ichida Ming rasmiysi buyurdi. Ming ma'murlari, ularning vazifasi g'ayritabiiy Vetnam barbarlarini tsivilizatsiya qilish edi.[41] Ming sulolasi Vetnamliklardan faqat uzun sochlar kiyishni va to'xtashni istashgan tishlarning qorayishi shuning uchun ular xitoylarga o'xshab oq tishlari va uzun sochlari bo'lishi mumkin edi.[42] Vyetnam tomonidan 1474 yilda Vetnam tomonidan Lao, Champa yoki Mingga ishora qilgan "shimolliklar" singari chet tillarini, soch turmagi va kiyimlarini qabul qilish taqiqlangan qirol farmoni chiqarildi. Farmon 1479 yilda qayd etilgan Dai Vietnamning to'liq xronikasi ning Ngô Sĩ Liên ichida Keyinchalik Lê sulolasi.[43]

Vetnamliklar 1000 yillik Xitoy hukmronligi davrida Xitoy siyosiy tizimi va madaniyatini qabul qilganlar, shuning uchun ular atrofdagi qo'shnilariga Kxmer Kambodja kabi barbar, o'zlarini esa Xitoyning (O'rta Qirollik) kichik versiyasi sifatida qarashgan.[44] Tomonidan Nguyen sulolasi Vetnamliklarning o'zlari Kambodja kxmerlariga soch qirqish kabi "vahshiy" odatlardan voz kechib, ularni uzun o'stirishni buyurib, xan xitoy madaniyatini qabul qilishni buyurmoqdalar.[45]

O'tgan o'nta amaldor Imperial imtihon Xuddi shu 1464 yilda (甲申 十 同年 圖), 1503 yilda birlashish paytida bo'yalgan. Mavjudligi yapay (牙牌, lit. "Tusk Card" yoki "Fil suyagi plakati") - fil suyagidan yasalgan, har bir amaldorning chap beliga osilgan to'rtburchaklar moslama, egasining bo'limi, lavozimi, lavozimi va yo'riqnomasi bilan o'yib yozilgan, o'tishga ruxsat berilgan mansabdor shaxslar. The Taqiqlangan shahar mehmonlar nishoniga o'xshash imperator bilan tinglovchilarga ega bo'lish - bu sahnaning bunday uchrashuv bo'lib o'tganidan ko'p o'tmay bo'yalganligini anglatadi.Ming sulolasi davrida ham fuqarolik, ham harbiy amaldorlar to'qqiz darajaga (品), har bir martabaga bo'lingan. Bundan tashqari, Boshlang'ich (正) va Ikkinchi (was) ga bo'lingan, shuning uchun texnik jihatdan o'n sakkiz daraja mavjud edi, birinchi darajali boshlang'ich (正 一 品) eng yuqori, to'qqizinchi daraja ikkinchi darajali (從 九品) eng past. Yuqori to'rt martabali amaldorlar (Birinchi darajadan boshlang'ich darajadan to to'rtinchi darajaga qadar) qizil xalat kiyish huquqiga ega edilar; o'rta darajalar (Beshinchi darajadan boshlang'ich darajagacha yettinchi darajaga qadar) ko'k liboslar, pastki darajalardan (to'qqizinchi darajadan ikkinchi darajaga qadar) yashil liboslar kiyish. Bundan tashqari, har bir aniq daraja kiyimning old va orqa qismidagi to'rtburchaklar shaklida yamoqqa tikilgan noyob hayvon (haqiqiy yoki afsonaviy) surati bilan ko'rsatilardi, shuning uchun ham rasmiylar uzoqdan kimningdir martabasini aniqlashlari mumkin edi. (Quyidagi jadvaldan keng qamrovli dalillar uchun foydalaning; qo'shimcha ma'lumot uchun qarang Mandarin maydoni )

Tsing sulolasi

Kansi imperatori kundalik kiyimda.
Qianlong imperatorining harbiy kiyimi
Qianlong imperatori Qing sud kiyimida

In Lio, Jin , Yuan va Min sulolalari, Jurxenlar asosan Zuojun xalatlari kiygan. Bojxonaga kirishdan oldin manjurlarning xalatlari va kiyimlari manchjur tilida "yijie" deb nomlanadi. Ular erkaklar, ayollar va bolalar yil davomida kiyadigan kiyimlardir. Har bir xalat butun kiyimdan kesilgan. Asosiy tuzilish dumaloq bo'yin, katta qopqoq, chap gusset, to'rt qirrali yoriqlar, belbog 'va taqa yenglari.[46] Ming sulolasi oxirlarida manchur kiyimlarining rivojlanishi asosan mo'g'ul kiyimlariga taqlid qilingan va o'q yengi mo'g'ul kiyimlarining o'ziga xos xususiyatlari.[47]Mashhur xitoylik olimlar Chjan Tayyan va Liang Tsixo ikkalasi ham Tsin sulolasidagi mashhur manjur ko'ylagi Ming sulolasida Hanfudan kelib chiqqanligini rad etishdi.

Ba'zilar manjur kiyimlari Ming Xitoyidan o'zgartirilgan xan kiyimlari, manjurlar dastlab o'z matolari yoki to'qimalariga ega emas edi va ular Mingni olishlari kerak edi, deb hisoblashadi. ajdaho liboslari va Mingga o'lpon to'lashganda yoki Ming bilan savdo qilganda mato. Ushbu Ming liboslari o'zgartirilgan, kesilgan va yenglari va beliga tor qilib etagidagi yoriqlar bilan lochin, otda otish va kamondan otish uchun mos bo'lgan.[48] Ming liboslari oddiygina o'zgartirilgan va o'zgartirilgan va manjurlar tomonidan yenglari va beliga kesib, ularni qo'llari va bellari atrofida emas, balki torlari bilan toraytirishi va yenglariga yangi tor manjet qo'shilishi mumkin edi.[49] Yangi manjet mo'ynadan qilingan. Choponning beliga belga yangi hurda mato ipi qo'yilgan edi, bel esa kiyimning etagining yuqori qismini plyonka bilan mahkamlangandi.[50] Ba'zilar Tsin sulolasidagi mashhur manjur ko'ylagi Ming sulolasidagi xan xitoy kiyimlaridan kelib chiqqanligini rad etishdi.[51][52]

Manchjurlar Ming ajdarho liboslariga sabladan qilingan mo'yna yubkalar, manjetlar va yoqalarni qo'shdilar va sable mo'ynalarini kiyishdan oldin ularning barchasini qirqishdi.[53] Xan xitoy saroyi kostyumi manjurlar tomonidan katta bo'yinbog '(da-ling) yoki ro'mol yoqasini (pijian-ling) qo'shish orqali o'zgartirilgan.[54] Ming sulolasi kiyimlarining tovon shaklidagi qarama-qarshiliklari tufayli Ming sulolasi kiyimlarining toq shaklidagi pao va xao-fu qarama-qarshiligi sababli, manjur terilari kiyimlarining ovchi ajdodlari Tsing sulolasi kiyimiga aylangan deb yanglishgan. G'arbdan kelgan olimlar o'zlarini mutlaqo manjur deb o'ylashdi. Vanli imperatorining qabri singari Min sulolasi maqbaralaridan Chao-fu liboslari qazib olinib, Qing chao fu o'xshashligi va undan kelib chiqqanligi aniqlandi. Ularda naqshinkor yoki to'qilgan ajdaho bo'lgan, lekin alohida kiyim bo'lgan uzun pao ajdarho liboslaridan farq qiladi. Yupqa yubka, o'ng tomoni mahkamlangan va ko'ylaklar o'rnatilgan ajdar xalatlari topildi[55] Ming amaldorlari va Ming imperatori oila a'zolarining Pekin, Shanxi, Tszyansi, Tszyansu va Shandun qabrlarida. Ming chao fu-ning ajralmas ustki yenglarida xuddi oldingi Ming chao fu singari Qing chao fu-da ikki bo'lak mato bor edi, ular korpusning ajralmas yuqori yengiga boshqa mato bilan biriktirilgan edi. Qing alohida kiyimlarining yana bir turi, uzun pao Yuan sulolasi kiyimlariga o'xshaydi, Yuan sulolasi davrida Li Yuanning Shandun maqbarasida topilgan liboslar. Tsing sulolasi xao-fu rasmiy rasmiy portretlarda, Ming sulolasi Chao fu esa ular kelib chiqmaydigan narsalarga ega, ehtimol bu Ming rasmiylari va imperatorlar oilasi o'zlarining rasmiy liboslari ostida chao fu kiyib yurganlaridan dalolat beradi, chunki ular Ming qabrlarida paydo bo'lgan, ammo portretlarda emas. Tsin sulolasi davrida Qing long pao shunga o'xshash norasmiy kiyim edi.[56] Yuan liboslari etaklari yonib, qo'llari va tanasi atrofida mahkam yopishgan edi. Ying sulolasi kiyimlaridan olingan Qing norasmiy kiyimlari, uzoq pao, Qing rasmiy kiyimlari, chao fu, Min sulolasining norasmiy kiyimlaridan, ajdarho liboslaridan olingan. Minlar o'zlarining kiyimlarini ongli ravishda Song sulolasi, Tang sulolasi va Xan sulolasi singari Xan xitoy sulolalari kiyinishlariga moslashtirdilar. Yaponiyaning Nara shahrida Todayji ibodatxonasining Shosoin omborida Xitoyning Tang sulolasi davridan 30 ta palto (xanpi) mavjud. Ming ajdarho liboslari qurilishda ushbu Tang sulolasi xanpidan kelib chiqadi. Xanpi yubka va ko'ylak turli xil matodan qilingan, ustiga turli naqshlar tushirilgan va bu erda Qing chao fu paydo bo'lgan.[57] O'zaro faoliyat yopilishlar hanpi va Ming kiyimlarida mavjud. Sakkizinchi asrda Shosoin xanpining xilma-xilligi shuni ko'rsatdiki, u tangada moda bo'lgan va ehtimol ancha qadimiy kiyimlardan olingan. Xan sulolasi va Szinlar sulolasi (266–420) davridagi qabrlar Yingban, uchun Tyanshan janubdagi tog'lar Shinjon Qing uzun pao va Tang sulolasi hanpiga o'xshash kiyimlarga ega. Qazib olingan qabrlarga oid dalillar shuni ko'rsatadiki, Xitoyda qadimgi qadimgi kiyim-kechak an'analari Qing chao fuga olib kelgan va manjurlar Tsin sulolasida yoki Yuan sulolasida mo'g'ullar tomonidan ixtiro qilinmagan yoki kiritilmagan. Qing chao fu tomonidan olingan Ming liboslari nafaqat portretlarda va rasmiy rasmlarda ishlatilgan, balki maqbaralarda ko'milish uchun yuqori maqomga ega bo'lgan. Ba'zi hollarda Tsin qadimgi Xitoyga taqlid qilishda Ming sulolasidan ustun bo'lib, Xitoy mumtozlarini o'rganib chiqqanidan keyin Osmon Mandatiga da'vo qilish uchun qadimiy xitoylik marosimlarni tiriltirish bilan qonuniylikni namoyish etdi. Qing qurbonlik marosimlari qadimgi Xitoy idishlariga ataylab Ming kemalariga qaraganda ko'proq o'xshaydi.[58] Tungusik odamlar Amur daryosi kabi Udeghe, Ulchi va Nanay marosim kiyimi, o'ralgan va spiral qushlar va hayvonlar uchun niqob naqshlarida xitoy ajdarlari bilan o'z dinlarida va kiyimlarida xitoylik ta'sirini qabul qildilar, Xitoy Yangi Yili, Min sulolasi davrida Xitoydan ipak va paxta, temir pishiriladigan idishlar va isitish uyidan foydalangan.[59]

The Spenser nomidagi san'at muzeyi xitoyliklarga tegishli oltita pao libosiga ega Tsin sulolasining zodagonlari (Xitoy zodagonlari ).[60] Xitoydagi mansabdor shaxslar va xitoylik zodagonlar etaklarida ikkita, manjur zodagonlari va imperatorlik oilasida esa 4 ta etak bor edi. Barcha birinchi, ikkinchi va uchinchi darajali amaldorlar, shuningdek, xitoylik xitoylar va manjur zodagonlari Qing Illustrated Presedents tomonidan 9 ta ajdaho kiyish huquqiga ega edilar. Qing zo'r qonunlari amaldorlar, xan xitoy zodagonlari va manjur zodagonlari uchun faqat to'rt tirnoqli ajdahoga ruxsat berar edi, ikkinchi darajagacha Tsin imperatori oilasi, imperator va knyazlar va ularning oila a'zolari ayollari beshta tirnoqli ajdaho kiyishga haqli edilar. Biroq mansabdor shaxslar ushbu qonunlarni doimo buzgan va 5 tirnoqli ajdaho kiyib olgan va Spenser muzeyining Xan xitoy zodagonlari kiygan 6 ta uzun pao ustida 5 tirnoqli ajdaho bo'lgan.[61]

Manchjuslar Tsing sulolasini o'rnatganida, hukumatlar xan xitoyliklarga sochlarini boshidan oldirish va boshning orqa qismidagi sochlarni cho'chqalarga to'qish orqali manchur soch turmagini qabul qilish to'g'risida farmonlar chiqardi. Sochni tarash siyosatiga qarshi qarshiliklar bostirildi.[62] Xan xitoyliklar navbat bilan o'ralgan holda boshning orqa tomoniga o'tirishga qarshi emasdilar, chunki ular odatdagidek barcha sochlarini uzun bo'yli kiyishgan, ammo peshonani oldirishga qat'iyan qarshi edilar, shuning uchun Tsin hukumati nafaqat odamlarni peshonani kiyishga emas, balki peshonasini oldirishga majbur qildi. . Qing soch turmagiga qarshi bo'lgan Tsinning birinchi yarmidagi xan isyonchilari basharani kiyib yurishgan, ammo boshning old qismini oldirishga buyruq berishgan. Bir kishi old tomondan sochini oldirishdan bosh tortgani uchun qatl etildi, ammo u sochlarini orqa tomoniga to'qigan edi. Keyinchalik g'arbiy inqilobchilar g'arbiy soch turmagidan ta'sirlanib, ortiqcha oro bermayni orqada qolgan deb hisoblay boshladilar va qisqa sochli g'arbiy soch turmagi bilan shug'ullanishni yoqladilar.[63] Taiping singari xinga qarshi isyonchilar, hattoki orqa tarafdagi navbatdagi basharalarini saqlab qolishgan, ammo ularning Qingga qarshi isyonlarining ramzi boshning old qismida soch o'sishi bo'lib, Qing hukumati boshning old qismini oldirish orqasida xan urf-odatlarini buzmaydigan va an'anaviy xanlarning e'tiroz bildirmaydigan ortiqcha oro bermay kiyishdan ko'ra, Tsinga sodiqlikning asosiy belgisi.[64] Koxinga qashshoq pashshani pashshaga o'xshatib, Qing soch turmagini haqorat qildi va tanqid qildi.[65] Koksinga feodatura sifatida tan olish evaziga Qing ularni sochlarini oldirishni talab qilganida, Koxinga va uning odamlari soqol olishga qarshi chiqishdi.[66] Tsin buni talab qildi Zheng Jing va uning Tayvandagi odamlari taniqli shaxs sifatida tan olinishi uchun sochlarini oldirishadi. Uning odamlari va Min shahzodasi Chju Shugui tarashga qattiq e'tiroz bildirdi.[67]

Ba'zi Xan fuqarolari ham o'z xohishlari bilan manjur kiyimlarini o'zlashtirdilar Changshan o'z xohishlariga ko'ra. Marhum Tsinga ko'ra nafaqat amaldorlar va olimlar, balki ko'plab oddiy odamlar ham manjur kiyimlarini kiyishni boshladilar.[68][69] Natijada, Min sulolasi uslubidagi kiyimlar hatto Xitoyda ba'zi joylarda saqlanib qolgan Sinxay inqilobi.[70]

Tsin sulolasi davrida manchur uslubidagi kiyimlar faqat kabi ilmiy-rasmiy elita uchun zarur bo'lgan Sakkizta banner hukumat amaldorlari sifatida xizmat qiladigan a'zolar va xan erkaklar. Ayollar kiyim-kechaklari uchun manjur va xan modalari birgalikda mavjud edi.[71] Tsin sulolasi davomida Xan ayollari Min sulolasidan kiyim kiyishni davom ettirdilar.[72] Taosist ruhoniylar ham, buddist rohiblar ham Qing tomonidan navbatda turishlari shart emas edi; ular o'zlarining an'anaviy soch turmagi, buddist rohiblari uchun butunlay qirqilgan boshlarini va Daos ruhoniylari uchun an'anaviy xitoycha topnotida uzun sochlarini kiyishni davom ettirdilar.[73][74][75][76][77][78][79][80][81][82] Navbat kiymaslik va peshonani oldirmaslik uchun Ming sadoqatli Fu Shan Tsinni egallab olganidan keyin Daoist ruhoniyiga aylandi. Taiyuan.[83] In Edo davri, Tokugawa Shogunate Yaponiya yaponiyalik erkaklarga boshlarini old qismidagi pashtani oldirish uchun buyruqlar qabul qildi chommage soch turmagi) va soqollarini, yuz sochlari va yon mo'ylovlarini qirib tashlang.[84] Bu Do'rg'on tomonidan erkaklar boshlarini peshtoqlarini oldirishga majbur qilgan Qing sulolasining navbat tartibiga o'xshardi.[85]

Bo'lgandi Xan xitoylik qochqinlar navbatni kiyishdan bosh tortgan odamlarga qarshi qirg'inlarni amalga oshirgan. Li Chengdong, Mingga xizmat qilgan, ammo Tsinga o'tib ketgan xan xitoylik general,[86] Jiading shahrida bir oy ichida uchta alohida qirg'inni amalga oshirishni buyurdi, natijada o'n minglab odamlar halok bo'ldi. Uchinchi qirg'in ozgina omon qoldi.[87] Uchta qirg'in Jiading tumani o'nlab yoki hatto yuz minglab odamlarning o'limiga olib keladigan taxminlarga ko'ra, eng shafqatsizlar.[88] Tszyanyin 83 kun davomida 10 mingga yaqin Qing qo'shinlariga qarshi kurash olib bordi. 1645 yil 9-oktabrda shahar devori buzilganida, Xin xitoylik Ming defektori boshchiligidagi Qing qo'shini. Lyu Liangzuo (劉良佐), "qilichingizni qinigacha shaharni jasadlarga to'ldiring" degan buyruq bilan, butun aholini qirg'in qildi va 74-100 ming kishini o'ldirdi.[89]Xan xitoylik askarlar Xan generali Xong Chengchjou boshchiligida 1645 yilda Tszyannan aholisiga navbatni majbur qilishgan, xanlarga dastlab navbatda turish uchun kumush to'langan. Fuzhou birinchi marta amalga oshirilganda.[90][91]

Daosist ruhoniylar daosizmning an'anaviy liboslarini kiyishda davom etishdi va Qing manchu liboslarini qabul qilmadilar. 1911 yilda Tsin ag'darilganidan keyin Sinxay inqilobi, daosistlar kiyimi va topnnot oddiy gentriylar tomonidan qabul qilingan va "Qadimgi usullarni tiklash jamiyati" (Fuguhui) tomonidan Sichuan va Xubey chegara qaerda Oq Lotus va Gelaohui operatsiya qilingan.[92]

Kech Tsing sulolasi davrida Vetnamning Tsin Xitoyidagi vakili hali ham Min sulolasi uslubida rasmiy kiyim kiygan edi. Mahalliy aholining ba'zilari ularning kiyimlarini tanib olishdi, ammo elchi ko'nmaganlardan kulgini ham, masxarasini ham oldi.[93]

Zamonaviy

Hanfu a Kunqu ishlash.

21-asrda moda va ijtimoiy harakat nomlandi Hanfu harakati qadimgi xan xitoy kiyimlarini tiklashga intiladi.[94][95] Harakatning ayrim elementlari tomonidan mahalliy kiyimlardan foydalanish ilhom oladi Xitoydagi etnik ozchiliklar, shuningdek, dan foydalanish kimono yilda Yaponiya va an'anaviy kiyim ichida ishlatilgan Hindiston.[96] Zamonaviy Hanfu shuningdek, har kuni kiyinish mumkin bo'lgan uslubni o'zgartiradi va bu uslublar g'arbiy kiyimlar yoki hatto boshqa madaniyatlarning kiyimlari bilan birlashtiriladi.[97]

Min sulolasi Ming imperatorlari tomonidan xitoylik zodagonlarga sovg'a qilingan Xan xitoylik kiyimlar Gersoglar Yansheng kelib chiqqan Konfutsiy da saqlanib qolgan Konfutsiy uyi besh asrdan ko'proq vaqt o'tgach. U erda Tsin imperatorlarining xalatlari ham saqlanib qolgan.[98][99][100][101][102] Jinlar sulolasidagi Jurxenlar va Yuan sulolasidagi mo'g'ullar Konfutsiy gersogi Yanshengga homiylik qilishda va qo'llab-quvvatlashda davom etishdi.[103]

Tikuv buyumlari

Tarixiy xancha kiyim uslubi o'ziga xos va ba'zida o'ziga xos tarzda joylashtirilgan kiyim elementlarini o'z ichiga olgan holda umumlashtirilishi mumkin. Bu Xitoydagi boshqa etnik guruhlarning an'anaviy kiyimlaridan farq qiladi, eng muhimi Manchu - ta'sirlangan kiyimlar, qipao, bu xalq orasida amalda an'anaviy xan xitoy libosi deb hisoblanadi. Ikkala uslubni taqqoslashni quyidagicha ko'rish mumkin:[104]

KomponentXonManchu
Yuqori kiyim"Yi" dan iborat (衣), bo'shashgan lapellari bor va ochiq"Pao" dan iborat (袍), ular bo'yin atrofidagi mahkamlangan va old teshiklari bo'lmagan
Pastki kiyim"Chang" deb nomlangan yubkalardan iborat (裳)"Ku" deb nomlangan shim yoki shimlardan iborat (褲)
YoqaUmuman olganda, chap tomondan o'ng tomonga o'tish bilan diagonal ravishda bir-birini kesib o'tishParallel diagonal lapellar bilan parallel vertikal yoqalar, ular bir-biriga to'g'ri keladi
YenglarUzoq va bo'shashganTor va qattiq
TugmalarKamdan kam foydalanilgan va kiyimning ichida yashiringanKo'p sonli va ko'zga ko'ringan
ArmaturaBelbog'lar va kamarlar kiyimlarni yopish, mahkamlash va bel atrofiga moslashtirish uchun ishlatiladiYassi bezakli tugmachalash tizimlari odatda yoqani mahkamlash va kiyimni bo'yin va yuqori tanaga bog'lash uchun ishlatiladi

Kiyimlarning to'liq to'plami bir nechta kiyimlardan libosga yig'iladi:

  • Yi (衣): Ikkala jinsdagi har qanday ochiq ko'ylak kiyim
  • Pao (袍): Faqat erkaklar kiyadigan har qanday yopiq to'liq tanali kiyim
  • Ru (襦): Ochiq ko'ndalang ko'ylak
  • Shan (衫): Yi ustiga kiyilgan ko'ylak yoki ko'ylakni oching
  • Qun (裙) yoki chang (裳): Ayollar va erkaklar uchun yubka
  • Ku (褲): Shimlar yoki shimlar

Shlyapalar, bosh kiyimlar va soch turmagi

Kiyimlarning ustiga bosh kiyimlar (erkaklar uchun) yoki sochlar (ayollar uchun) kiyinishi mumkin. Biror kishining kasbini yoki ijtimoiy mavqeini ko'pincha kimning boshiga kiyganiga qarab aniqlash mumkin. Erkaklar bosh kiyimlarining odatiy turlari deyiladi jin (巾) yumshoq qalpoqchalar uchun, mao (帽) qattiq bosh kiyimlar uchun va guan (冠) rasmiy bosh kiyim uchun. Rasmiylar va akademiklar alohida shlyapalar to'plamiga ega, odatda putu (幞 頭), the wushamao (烏紗帽), the si-fang pingding jin (四方 平定 巾; yoki oddiygina, fangjin: 方巾) va Zhuangzi jin (莊子 巾). Ayollar uchun odatiy soch turmagi bu ji (笄), ammo yanada murakkab sochlar mavjud.

Bundan tashqari, sochlarni boshqarish qadimgi xanlarning kundalik hayotining muhim qismidir. Odatda, erkaklar va ayollar voyaga etganlaridan keyin sochlarini kesishdan to'xtaydilar. Bu xitoyliklarning yoshga to'lish marosimi bilan belgilandi Guan Li, odatda, 15 yoshdan 20 yoshgacha bo'lgan davrda, sochlari o'limigacha tabiiy ravishda uzoq o'sishiga, shu jumladan yuz sochlariga imkon berishgan. Bunga Konfutsiyning ta'limoti sabab bo'ldi "Shenti fa fu, shou zhu fumu, bu gan huishang, xiaozhi shi ye (身體 髮 膚 ， 受諸 父母 ， 不敢 ， 孝 之 之 始 也) "- bu" Mening tanam, sochlarim va terim otam va onam tomonidan in'om etilgan, men ularning hech biriga zarar etkazishga jur'at etolmayman "deb tarjima qilish mumkin. Men ota-onamni hurmat qilish va hurmat qilish uchun qila oladigan eng kam narsa ". Aslida qadimgi Xitoyda sochlarini qirqish jinoyatchilarni kamsitishga qaratilgan, shuningdek," Qish (called) "deb nomlangan qonuniy jazo sifatida qabul qilingan. O'zining jinoyati to'g'risida xabar berish uchun yuz tatuirovkasi, bu jazo "Qing (黥)" deb nomlanadi, chunki oddiy odamlar o'zlarining terisida xuddi shu falsafaga tegishli tatuirovkalarni yasamaydilar.

Xancha soch turmagi kiygan ikki ayolning rasmlari, Dahuting Qabr

Bolalar yuqoridagi amrdan ozod qilingan; ular sochlarini kalta qilib, har xil tugun yoki to'qish yasashlari yoki shunchaki ularni hech qanday parvarish qilmasdan osib qo'yishlari mumkin edi, ayniqsa bunday qarorni bolalar emas, balki ota-onalar qabul qilar edilar, shuning uchun ota-onalarning hurmati buzilmagan edi. Biroq, ular voyaga etganidan so'ng, har bir erkak uzun sochlarini chaqirilgan bulochkaga bog'lashga majbur edi ji (髻) boshida yoki orqasida va bulochkani har doim har xil bosh kiyimlar bilan yoping (bundan mustasno) Buddist har doim "o'lik dunyoning er rishtalaridan uzilib qolganligini" ko'rsatish uchun boshlarini butunlay oldiradigan rohiblar; va Daosist bukilarni yashirmasdan ushlab turish uchun odatda "簪" (zan) deb nomlangan soch tayoqchalarini ishlatadigan rohiblar). Shunday qilib, "xiralashgan sochlar", aksariyat zamonaviy xitoy davridagi dramalarda yoki filmlarda ko'rilgan qadimgi xitoylik erkak figuralarining keng tarqalgan, ammo noto'g'ri tasviri ikki yuziga va / yoki orqa tomoniga osilgan sochlari (yuz sochlari bundan mustasno) bilan tarixiy jihatdan noto'g'ri.[105] Boshqa tomondan, urg'ochilar, sochlarini kattalarcha bezash borasida ko'proq tanlovga ega edilar. Ular hanuzgacha sochlarini xohlagancha turli xil soch turmaklariga solishtirishlari mumkin edi. Turli sulolalar davrida ayollar uchun turli xil moda turlari mavjud edi.

Soch kesishning bunday qat'iy urf-odati Konfutsiy davridan to oxirigacha butun Xan xitoylari tarixida amalga oshirilgan Min sulolasi (Milodiy 1644), Qing shahzodasi Do'rg'on erkaklar xanlarni peshonalarini sochlarini oldirib, sochlarning qolgan qismini orqa qismidagi quyruqlarga yig'ib olgan manchur erkaklarining soch turmagini olishga majbur qildi (Qarang: Navbat ) ular Qing hokimiyatiga topshirilganligini ko'rsatish uchun "Navbat tartibi" deb nomlangan (zhāng phi). Xan bolalari va ayollari bu tartibdan qutulishdi, shuningdek Taocu rohiblariga sochlarini saqlashga va Buddist rohiblariga barcha sochlarini oldirishga ruxsat berildi. Xandan Qingga qochib ketish Li Chengdong va Liu Liangzuo va ularning Xan qo'shinlari kabi navbatdagi buyruqni uni keng aholiga majbur qilish uchun amalga oshirdilar. Xan xitoylik askarlar Xan generali Xong Chengchjou boshchiligida 1645 yilda Tszyannan aholisiga navbatni majbur qilishgan, xanlarga dastlab navbatda turish uchun kumush to'langan. Fuzhou birinchi marta amalga oshirilganda.[90]

IsmTa'rifAmaldagi jinsMuvofiq yoshUchrashuvDavrTasvirlar
Mian Guan (冕 冠)Shi er liu mian (十二 旒 冕)Imperatorlar tomonidan kiyiladi.ErkakVoyaga etganChjou - MingSariq imperator.jpgXitoy imperatori Mian, Dingling.jpg
Ping mian (平 冕)ErkakVoyaga etganXon - Qo'shiq
Jiuliu mian (九 旒 冕)ErkakVoyaga etganChjou - MingMianguan.jpg
Baliu mian (八 旒 冕)ErkakVoyaga etganChjou - Ming
Qiliu mian (七 旒 冕)ErkakVoyaga etganChjou - Ming
Pibian (皮 弁)ErkakVoyaga etganChjou - MingMing crown.jpg
Feng Guan (鳳冠)AyolVoyaga etganQo'shiq - MingB Song Dynasty Empress of Ningzong.JPGB Song Dynasty Empress of Qinzong.JPGEmpress crown.jpg
Yang Guan (梁冠)Diaochan Guan 貂蟬 冠ErkakVoyaga etganXon - MingQu Shisi.jpg史 嵩 之 .jpg王守仁 容 像 .jpg
Tongtian Guan (通天 冠)ErkakVoyaga etganXan - MingZhaohongyin2.jpg
Jinxian Guan (進賢 冠)ErkakVoyaga etganChjou - Ming
Putou (襆 頭)Chuijiao Putou (垂 腳 襆 頭)yoqilgan "bosh kiyim" yoki "bosh o'ralgan". Norasmiy bosh kiyimlarning dastlabki shakli allaqachon paydo bo'lgan Jin sulolasi keyinchalik turli xil holatlarda kiyinish uchun bir nechta o'zgarishlarga aylandi.ErkakVoyaga etganTang - MingTang sulolasi Gaozu.jpegTangxuanzong.jpg
Zhangok Putou (展 角 幞 頭)yoqilgan tomonidan ishlab chiqilgan "yoyilgan shoxli boshcha" Song sulolasining asoschisi, with elongated horns on both sides in order to keep the distance between his officials so they couldn't whisper to each other during court assemblies. It was also later adapted by the Ming dynasty, authorized for court wear.ErkakVoyaga etganChangfu (Tang), Gongfu (Song-Ming)Tang - MingVang Anshi.jpg徐 應 登 .jpg宋光宗 .jpg
Zhanchi Putou (展翅幞頭)yoqilgan "spread-wing head cover", more commonly known by its nickname Wu Sha Mao (烏紗帽), yoqilgan "black-cloth hat", was the standard headwear of officials during the Ming dynasty. The term "Wu Sha Mao" is still frequently used in modern Chinese slang when referring to a government position.ErkakVoyaga etganMing解 縉 .png王 衡 .jpg
Yishan Guan (翼善冠)yoqilgan "winged crown of philanthropy", worn by emperors and princes of the Ming dynasty, as well as kings of many of its irmoqlar kabi Xoseon va Ryukyu. The version worn by emperors was elaborately decorated with jewels and dragons, while the others looked like Wu Sha Mao but with wings folded upwards.ErkakVoyaga etganTang - MingMingShizong.jpgZhu Yuanzhang.pngShoh Wanli.jpg-ning Oltin toj nusxasi
Tang jin (唐巾)ErkakVoyaga etganMingKim Yuk 02.jpg
Gaowu mao (高屋帽)Baisha mao (白紗帽)ErkakVoyaga etganNorthern and Southern dynasties - TangChen Wendi Tang.jpg
Wusha Gaowu mao (烏紗高屋帽)ErkakVoyaga etganNorthern and Southern dynasties - Song圖 懷 太子 墓 壁畫 禮賓 圖 a.jpg
Zhulu mao (逐鹿帽)ErkakVoyaga etganShimoliy va Janubiy sulolalar
Sifang pingding jin (四方平定巾)ErkakVoyaga etganMingYun Jeung.jpg
Dangpo jin (東坡巾)ErkakVoyaga etganSong - MingZhu xi.jpgJ 监察 宋 程 颢 .jpg
Zhouzi jin (周子巾)ErkakVoyaga etganSong - MingShen Chjou 80 yoshida avtoportret. Saroy muzeyi Beijing.jpgJ 寇 宋丞相 公 准 .jpg
Zhuangzi jin (莊子巾)ErkakVoyaga etganZhou - HanVang Fuzhi.jpgShu Shunsui.jpg
Fu jin (幅巾)ErkakVoyaga etganHan - Ming湯顯祖 像 mingdynastyhanfubeizi.jpgWu Weiye.jpg
Wang jin (網巾)ErkakVoyaga etganMingWangjin.jpg
Huasheng (華勝)AyolVoyaga etganHan - SongX Songzu sulolasi imperatori.JPG

Uslub

Another type of Han Chinese Shenyi (深衣) commonly worn from the pre-Shang periods to the Ming dynasty. This form is known as the zhiju (直裾) and worn primarily by men

Han Chinese clothing had changed and evolved with the fashion of the days since its commonly assumed beginnings in the Shang sulolasi. Many of the earlier designs are more gender-neutral and simpler in cut than later examples. Later garments incorporate multiple pieces with men commonly wearing pants and women commonly wearing skirts. Clothing for women usually accentuates the body's natural curves through wrapping of upper garment lapels or binding with sashes at the waist.

Norasmiy kiyim

Two traditional forms of ruqun (襦裙), a type of Han Chinese clothing worn primarily by women. Cuffs and sleeves on the upper garment may be tighter or looser depending on style. A short skirt or vaznli braid (with weight provided by a jade or gold pendant) is sometimes worn to improve aesthetics or comfort of the basic ruqun.

Types include tops (yi) and bottoms (divided further into pants and skirts for both genders, with terminologies chang yoki qun), and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi).

  • Zhongyi (中衣) or zhongdan (中單): inner garments, mostly white cotton or silk
  • Shanqun (衫裙): a short coat with a long skirt
  • Ruqun (襦裙): a top garment with a separate lower garment or skirt
  • Kuzhe (褲褶): a short coat with trousers
  • Zhiduo/zhishen (直裰/直身): a Ming dynasty style robe, similar to a zhiju shenyi but with vents at the side and 'stitched sleeves' (i.e. the sleeve cuff is closed save a small opening for the hand to go through)
  • Daopao /Fusha (道袍/彿裟): Taoist/Buddhist priests' full dress ceremonial robes. Note: Daopao does not necessarily means Taoist's robe, it actually is a style of robe for scholars. The Taoist version of Daopao is called De Luo (得罗), and Buddhist version is called Hai Qing (海青).

A typical set of clothing can consist of two or three layers. The first layer of clothing is mostly the zhongyi (中衣) which is typically the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants. The next layer is the main layer of clothing which is mostly closed at the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front. More complicated sets can have many more layers.

For footwear, white paypoq and black cloth poyabzal (with white soles) are the norm, but in the past, shoes may have a front face panel attached to the tip of the shoes. Daoistlar, Buddistlar va Confucians may have white stripe chevronlar.

Yarim rasmiy kiyim

A piece of ancient Chinese clothing can be "made semi-formal" by the addition of the following appropriate items:

  • Chang (裳): a pleated skirt
  • Bixi (蔽膝): long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt
  • Zhaoshan (罩衫): long open fronted coat
  • Guan (冠) or any formal hats

Generally, this form of wear is suitable for meeting guests or going to meetings and other special cultural days. This form of dress is often worn by the nobility or the upper-class as they are often expensive pieces of clothing, usually made of silks and damasks. The coat sleeves are often deeper than the shenyi to create a more voluminous appearance.

Rasmiy kiyim

In addition to informal and semi-formal wear, there is a form of dress that is worn only at confucian rituals (like important sacrifices or religious activities) or by special people who are entitled to wear them (such as officials and emperors). Formal wear are usually long wear with long sleeves except Xuanduan.

Formal garments may include:

RimlashtirishXanziTa'rifTasvirlar
Shenyi深 衣A long full body garment. Quju (曲裾): diagonal body wrapping. Zhiju (直裾): straight lapelsYun Jeung.jpgPark Ji-won.jpgXan Xo 01.jpg
Xuanduan玄端Juda rasmiy dark robe.Sui Yangdi Tang.jpg
Yuanlingshan圓領衫lanshan (襴衫) or panlingpao (盤領袍): closed, round-collared robe; mostly used for official or academical dress.Tang Dynasty.jpg-dagi Li Syan qabri, kortejdagi raqamlarArtifact hanfu12.jpg

The most formal dress civilians can wear is the xuanduan (ba'zan chaqiriladi yuanduan 元端[106]), which consists of a black or dark blue top garment that runs to the knees with long sleeve (often with white piping), a bottom red chang, qizil bixi (which can have a motif and/or be edged in black), an optional white belt with two white streamers hanging from the side or slightly to the front called peishou (佩綬), and a long black guan. Additionally, wearers may carry a long jade gui (圭) or wooden salom (笏) tablet (used when greeting royalty). This form of dress is mostly used in sacrificial ceremonies such as Ji Tian (祭天) and Ji Zu (祭祖), etc., but is also appropriate for state occasions. The xuanduan is basically a simplified version of full court dress of the officials and the nobility.

Those in the religious orders wear a plain middle layer garment followed by a highly decorated cloak or coat. Taoists have a 'scarlet gown' (絳袍)[107] which is made of a large cloak sewn at the hem to create very long deep sleeves used in very formal rituals. They are often scarlet or crimson in color with wide edging and embroidered with intricate symbols and motifs such as the sakkiz trigram va yin va yang Taiji symbol. Buddhist have a cloak with gold lines on a scarlet background creating a brickwork pattern which is wrapped around over the left shoulder and secured at the right side of the body with cords. There may be further decorations, especially for high priests.[108]

Those in academia or officialdom have distinctive gowns (known as changfu 常服 in court dress terms). This varies over the ages but they are typically round collared gowns closed at the front. The most distinct feature is the headwear which has 'wings' attached. Only those who passed the civil examinations are entitled to wear them, but a variation of it can be worn by ordinary scholars and laymen and even for a groom at a wedding (but with no hat).

Sud kiyimi

Government officials in Changfu davomida Wanli era, Min sulolasi
A Ming official in Changfu

Court dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an taxtga o'tirish ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions. The practical use of court dress is now obsolete in the modern age since there is no reigning monarch in China anymore.

Court dress refers to:

RimlashtirishXanziTa'rifDavrTasvirlar
Mianfu冕服Attire worn by emperors and crown princes.Shang - MingWanli-Imperor.jpgChjou Vu Tang.jpgXan Guangvu Di.jpg
Huidi-yi褘翟衣Attire worn by empresses and crown princessesZhou - MingNingzongning Empress.jpg portretiImperatriceSongQinzong.jpgSong Dynasty Empress Xiang.jpg-ning o'tirgan portreti
Bianfu弁服Ceremonial military dress of emperor, officials or nobilityShang - MingMingMuzong1.jpgMingShenzong1.jpgMingXianzong1.jpg
Dashanxiapei大衫霞帔Ceremonial court dress of empresses and mìngfu. yoqilgan "The Grand Dress of Draping Radiance"Song- MingCaoguo malikasi 2.jpg孝莊 睿 皇后 .jpgJ 章 皇后 孙氏 （明 宣宗) 1.jpg
Sifu賜服Ceremonial court dress of the highest rank officials. The right to wear such dress was seen as a special honor that emperors bestowed on officials.Ming - Qing六十 一代 衍聖公 孔弘緒 .jpg李 化 龍 .jpg高拱 .jpg
Changfu常服Everyday court dressSong - QingRasmiylar3.jpgLiu Daxia.jpgCao guang.jpg
Chaofu朝服A red ceremonial court dress of emperor, officials or nobilityZhou - MingYang Jisheng.jpg史 褒 善 .png倫 文 敘 .jpg
Gongfu公服Formal court dress according to ranks.[109]Tang - MingJ 昶 陸 服 像 .jpgDong Qi.jpg趙魏公 小 像 .jpg
Official Dress Codes of the Ming Dynasty
AfzallikRankRobe ColorAnimal on Patch
(Fuqarolik)		Animal on Patch
(Harbiy)		Exemplified Positions (Not All-Inclusive)
1-chi
(Eng yuqori)		First Rank Primary
正一品		Qizil tojli kranArslonEmperor's Chief Advisor 太師
Mintaqaviy Commander 都督
2-chiFirst Rank Secondary
從一品		Emperor's Assistant 少傅
Regional Executive Officer 都督同知
3-chiSecond Rank Primary
正二品		Oltin qirg'ovulArslonCrown Prince's Teaching Assistant太子少師
Secretary of Defense 兵部尚書
4-chiSecond Rank Secondary
從二品		Governor 布政使
Viloyat Deputy Commander 都指揮同知
5-chiThird Rank Primary
正三品		TovusYo'lbarsShahar hokimi Pekin 順天府尹
Deputy Secretary of Labor 工部侍郎
6-chiThird Rank Secondary
從三品		Minister of the Imperial Stud 太僕寺卿
Minister of Salt Supply 都轉鹽運使
7-chiFourth Rank Primary
正四品		Yovvoyi g'ozQoplon(Eunuch Position) Handler of the Imperial Seal 掌印太監
Minister of Foreign Affairs 鴻臚寺卿
8-chiFourth Rank Secondary
從四品		Principal of the Imperial Academy 國子監祭酒
Governor's Junior Assistant 參議
9-chiFifth Rank Primary
正五品		Kumush qirg'ovulAyiqPrincipal of the Imperial Medical Academy 太醫院使
Grand Secretary of the Kabinet 内閣大學士
10-chiFifth Rank Secondary
從五品		Junior Scholar at the Imperial Library 翰林院侍讀學士
Deputy Manager of the Department of Justice 刑部員外郎
11-chiSixth Rank Primary
正六品		EgretPantera(Female Position) Manager of Royal House Records 司記
Minister of Buddhist Affairs 僧錄司善世
12-chiSixth Rank Secondary
從六品		Deputy Mayor 同知
Deputy Manager of Ozchilik Affairs 安撫司副使
13-chiSeventh Rank Primary
正七品		Mandarin o'rdakPanteraAuditor of the Supreme Court 大理寺評事
Investigating Censor 監察 御史
14-chiSeventh Rank Secondary
從七品		Monitor of the Olti vazirlik 給事中
Deputy Ambassador 行人司左司副
15-chiEighth Rank Primary
正八品		OrioleKarkidonAccountant at the Department of Finance 戶部照磨
Deputy County Administrator 縣丞
16-chiEighth Rank Secondary
從八品		Assistant Priest at the Ministry of Imperial Sacrifices 太常寺祀丞
Supervisor at the Ministry of Royal Food Service 光祿寺監事
17-chiNinth Rank Primary
正九品		BedanaA ot dengizda
(emas dengiz oti )		Chief Servant at the Ministry of Royal Theatres 教坊司奉鑾
Chief Officer at the Headquarter of Official Travels 會同館大使
18-chi
(Eng past)		Ninth Rank Secondary
從九品		Warden 司獄
Marshal 巡檢

Galereya

Shuningdek qarang

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Bibliografiya

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Tashqi havolalar

  • Bilan bog'liq ommaviy axborot vositalari Hanfu Vikimedia Commons-da