Jeyn Grigson - Jane Grigson

Grigson 1989 yil sentyabrda

Jeyn Grigson (tug'ilgan Xizer Mabel Jeyn MakIntir; 1928 yil 13 mart - 1990 yil 12 mart) ingliz oshpazligi yozuvchisi. 20-asrning ikkinchi qismida u oziq-ovqat ustunining muallifi edi Kuzatuvchi haqida ko'plab kitoblar yozgan Evropa oshxonalari va an'anaviy Britaniya taomlari. Uning ishi ingliz taomlarini targ'ib qilishda ta'sirchan edi.

Tug'ilgan Gloucestershire, Grigson katta bo'lgan Sanderlend, yilda Shimoliy Sharqiy Angliya, o'qishdan oldin Nyemxem kolleji, Kembrij. 1953 yilda u Rainbird, McLinan nashriyot kompaniyasida muharrir yordamchisiga aylandi, u erda u shoir va yozuvchining tadqiqotchi yordamchisi edi. Jefri Grigson. Tez orada ular 1985 yilda vafotigacha davom etgan munosabatlarni boshladilar; ularning bitta qizi bor edi, Sofi. Jeyn italiyalik asarlarning tarjimoni bo'lib ishlagan va yozishdan oldin eri bilan birgalikda kitoblar yozgan Charcuterie va frantsuz cho'chqa oshpazligi 1967 yilda. Kitob yaxshi kutib olindi va Grigson o'z mavqeiga ega bo'ldi Kuzatuvchi ovqat yozuvchisi tavsiyasidan keyin Elizabeth Devid.

Grigson yozishni davom ettirdi Kuzatuvchi 1990 yilgacha; u, shuningdek, asosan ingliz taomlariga e'tibor qaratadigan asarlar yozgan Yaxshi narsalar (1971), Ingliz taomlari (1974), Mashhurlar bilan birga ovqat (1979) va Britaniya oshpazligi bo'yicha kuzatuvchilar uchun qo'llanma (1984) yoki kabi asosiy tarkibiy qismlar haqida Baliq oshxonasi (1973), Qo'ziqorinlar bayrami (1975), Jeyn Grigsonning sabzavotli kitobi (1978), Jeyn Grigsonning mevalar kitobi (1982) va Ekzotik meva va sabzavotlar (1986). U mukofotga sazovor bo'ldi Jon Florio mukofoti 1966 yilda italiyalik tarjima uchun va uning oziq-ovqat kitoblari uchta g'olib bo'ldi Glenfiddich oziq-ovqat va ichimliklar mukofotlari va ikkitasi Andre Simon Xotira mukofotlari.

Grigson siyosiy lobbichilikda faol bo'lgan, qarshi kampaniya olib borgan batareyalarni etishtirish va hayvonlarning farovonligi, oziq-ovqat mahsulotlarini tekshirish va kichik mulkdorlar; 1988 yilda u oldi Jon MakGregor, keyin Qishloq xo'jaligi, baliqchilik va oziq-ovqat vaziri, keyin topshiriq berish salmonella ingliz tuxumidan topilgan. Uning yozuvi she'rlar, romanlar va oshpazlik mualliflarini o'z ichiga olgan bir qator manbalar bilan oziq-ovqatni ijtimoiy va tarixiy sharoitga kiritdi Sanoat inqilobi davr, shu jumladan Xanna Glasse, Elizabeth Raffald, Mariya Rundell va Eliza Acton. Yozuvi orqali u inglizlarning ovqatlanish odatlarini o'zgartirib, unutilgan ko'plab taomlarni yana bir bor mashhur qildi.

Biografiya

Hayotning boshlang'ich davri; 1928-1965

Grigsonniki olma joylari
Moviy kirish eshigigacha qisqa zinapoyali katta kulrang toshli ikki qavatli bino,
Kasterton maktabi, Westmorland, Cumbria
Katta, qizil g'ishtli uch qavatli bino; oldida botgan manzarali bog 'bor.
Nyemxem kolleji, Kembrij

Grigson 13 mart 1928 yilda Xezer Mabel Jeyn MakIntirda tug'ilgan Gloucester, Gloucestershire, Jorj va Doris MakIntirening qizi. Jorj advokat va o'rinbosar edi shahar kotibi Gloucester; Doris rassom edi.[1][2][3] Keyinchalik Grigson uyi u erda "birinchi marta ingliz taomlari to'g'risida yaxshi ma'lumot olgan".[4] U an-ning yopilishida ishtirok etganidan keyin so'yish joyi, Jorj go'sht iste'mol qilishdan voz kechdi.[5] Grigson to'rt yoshga to'lganida, oila ko'chib ketgan Sanderlend, Shimoliy Sharqiy Angliya. U o'zi bilan qolgan shimoliy-sharqiy aksentning izini oldi va bu qanday Oksford milliy biografiyasining lug'ati "tinchgina chap" siyosiy nuqtai nazarni chaqiradi.[2][6] Davomida Ikkinchi jahon urushi, Sanderlend maqsad bo'lgan Luftwaffe bombalar, shuning uchun Grigson va uning singlisi Meri yuborilgan Kasterton, maktab-internati Kasterton, Kumbriya.[6] Keyin u o'z o'rnini egalladi Nyemxem kolleji, Kembrij ingliz adabiyotini o'qish.[7]

Universitetdan so'ng Grigson Italiya bo'ylab sayohat qildi,[8] va uch oy yashadi Florensiya.[7] Buyuk Britaniyaga qaytib kelgach, u yordamchiga aylandi Bryan Robertson, Kembrijdagi Xeffer galereyasida kurator;[8] rasm, kumush va to'qimachilik mahsulotlariga qiziqish uni lavozimlarga murojaat qilishga undadi Viktoriya va Albert muzeyi, lekin u muvaffaqiyatsiz bo'ldi.[6] U badiiy galereyada kichik lavozimda ishlagan Bond ko'chasi; u akvarellarni eskirgan deb o'ylardi va keyinchalik "Men hamma narsani devorlardan yulib, osib qo'yishni xohlar edim [asarlar] Ben Nikolson ".[9] U badiiy sharhlar yozishni boshladi Sanderlendning aks-sadosi,[2] nozik kulolchilik kabi mavzular,[10] The Uyg'onish davri[11] va ishi Klarkson Frederik Stenfild.[12] 1953 yilda u Rainbird, McLean nashriyot kompaniyasida muharrir yordamchisiga aylandi va shu lavozimda ikki yil ishladi,[1] shu vaqt ichida u shoir va yozuvchining tadqiqotchi yordamchisi bo'lgan Jefri Grigson.[2] U hali ham turmush qurgan, garchi u ajralib ketgan va undan yigirma uch yosh katta bo'lsa-da, ular munosabatlarni boshlashgan va ko'p o'tmay birga yashashgan Keng shahar, Wiltshire. U va uning xotini ajrashmadilar; ajrashgan xotini unga berishdan bosh tortdi.[13][n 1] Buning o'rniga, 1950-yillarning o'rtalarida MakIntir ismini o'zgartirdi dalolatnoma bo'yicha so'rovnoma Jeyn Grigsonga.[2][6][n 2]

1959 yilda Grigonlarning qizi bor edi, Sofi, keyinchalik u oziq-ovqat yozuvchisi va televizion taqdimotchiga aylandi.[6] Tug'ilgandan ko'p o'tmay, er-xotin g'or-kottejni sotib olishdi Tru, Frantsiya,[n 3] va shunga ko'ra u erda edi Oksford milliy biografiyasining lug'ati, Grigson "pazandalik hayotning asosiy qismidir, chunki u boshqa san'at turlari kabi ehtiyotkorlik bilan yozilishi kerak" degan ishonchni rivojlantirdi.[2]

Grigson o'n yil davomida italyan tilidan tarjimon bo'lib ishlagan,[1][18] va 1959 yilda u yangi tarjimasini yozdi Karlo Kollodi ertak Pinokkioning sarguzashtlari, u "Pinokkioning asl nusxaning jonli va qattiqligini uzatadigan yagona versiyasi" deb o'ylagan.[19] U Gian Antonio Cibottoning 1962 yilgi asarini tarjima qilgan Scano Boa 1963 yilda va o'sha yili ham tarjima qilingan Sezare Bekkariya 1764 ishi Dei delitti e delle pene; asar nashr etildi Jinoyatlar va jazolarva u 1966 yilda g'olib bo'ldi Jon Florio mukofoti italyancha tarjima uchun.[2][20] Keyinchalik Jeyn va Jefri voyaga etmaganlarga qaratilgan qo'shma loyihada ishladilar, ular 65 ta badiiy asarning ma'nosini o'z vaqtlari va ularning doimiy ta'siri kontekstida ko'rib chiqdilar; Shakllar va hikoyalar 1964 yilda nashr etilgan.[21] The Times va Guardian ikkalasi ham "asl va chiroyli" deb o'ylashdi.[22][23] Keyingi ish, Shakllar va sarguzashtlar, 1967 yilda nashr etilgan.[21]

1960-yillarning o'rtalaridan 1970-yillarning o'rtalariga qadar

Cho'chqa go'shti kesilgan joyini ko'rsatadigan cho'chqa diagrammasi
Charcuterie va frantsuz cho'chqa oshpazligi: cho'chqa, "tumshug'idan dumigacha, pishirganda yoki davolaganda yoqimli", deydi Grigson.[24]

1960-yillarning o'rtalarida Grigsonni do'sti Adey Xorton cho'chqa go'shti bo'yicha kitobni hammualliflik qilishga undadi. Xorton loyihani amalga oshirishni to'xtatib qo'ydi va 1967 yilda Grigson nashr etdi Charcuterie va frantsuz cho'chqa oshpazligi.[7] Sharhlovchi The Times "tadqiqotlar batafsil bayon etilgan, jonli ravishda hikoya qilingan, ma'lumot juda jozibali, retseptlar boshdan quyruqgacha yakunlangan".[25] A tour d'horizon 1977 yildagi oshpazlik kitoblari, Elizabeth Devid kitobni "Frantsuz uy xo'jaliklari hamda professionallar tomonidan qo'llaniladigan" cho'chqa go'shtini tuzlash, davolash va pishirish bo'yicha qimmatli asar "deb atashdi. charcutiers", va" haqiqiy retseptlar, amaliy yondashuv va yaxshi yozish "haqida izoh berdi.[26]

Quvvatiga ko'ra Charcuterie va frantsuz cho'chqa oshpazligi- va undan keyin tushlikda - Devid Grigsonga tavsiya qildi Kuzatuvchi ularning oziq-ovqat yozuvchisi sifatida;[6][7] Grigson haftalik ustunini keyingi yil qog'oz bilan boshladi.[27] Birinchi maqolasi uchun u qulupnay haqida yozgan, ammo mavzuga qanday yaqinlashishni bilmagan. Uning eri "biz qulupnay odamlarga nimani anglatishini, ular unga nima qilganlarini, qanday qilib rivojlantirganlarini va boshqalarni bilib olamiz" deb maslahat berdi. U kelajakdagi ustunlarining aksariyati uchun xuddi shu yondashuvni qo'llagan.[28][29]

Jey Reyner, uning rolini davom ettirganlardan biri, Grigson "gazetaning obro'sini oziq-ovqat bilan jiddiy shug'ullanadigan nashr sifatida o'rnatdi" deb yozadi.[30] Nayjel Slater, boshqa bir voris, uning yozilishini "afsonaviy" deb hisoblaydi.[27] U ushbu lavozimni 1990 yilgacha egallab kelgan.[30] Grigson va uning eri Troyada yiliga uch oy sarf qilar edilar - ba'zan har yili ikki marta tashrif buyurib, u erda va Viltzirning Broad Taun shahridagi uylarida yozishardi.[31][32] Frantsiyada bo'lganida, u qiziga ko'ra "frantsuz do'stlariga ... ingliz oshpazligi ularnikiga o'xshab yaxshi bo'lishi mumkinligini isbotlashdan mamnun edi".[33] Uning maqolalari Kuzatuvchi keyingi kitoblarning asosini taqdim etdi; 1971 yilda uning ustunlari material taqdim etdi Yaxshi narsalar, u "bu oshpazlik uchun qo'llanma emas, balki ovqatdan lazzatlanish haqida kitob" deb aytgan.[34] Harold Uilshu, uchun oziq-ovqat muallifi Guardian, buni "muhtasham kitob ... yolg'iz o'rik haqidagi bob uchun pulga arziydi" deb o'yladi[35] The Times uni "ehtimol uning kitoblari orasida eng mashhuri" deb biladi.[36] Nika Hazelton, uni ko'rib chiqmoqda The New York Times "o'qish va ovqat pishirish zavq bag'ishlaydi. Muallif savodli, ovqatlari qiziqarli, ammo ta'sir qilmaydi".[37] Oshpaz va ovqat yozuvchisi Samin Nosrat ro'yxatlar Yaxshi narsalar "mening oshpaz va yozuvchi sifatida faoliyatimni shakllantirgan klassik oshxona kitoblaridan" biri sifatida Jeyn Grigsonning mevalar kitobi va Jeyn Grigsonning sabzavotli kitobi.[38][n 4]

1973 yilda Grigson tomonidan taklif qilingan Sharob va oziq-ovqat jamiyati yozmoq Baliq oshxonasi. Ovqat yozuvchisi Geralden Xoltning so'zlariga ko'ra, o'sha paytda Britaniyada baliqlar rasmiy taomda asosiy taom bo'lishi odatiy bo'lmagan; 1993 yilda Grigson yangilangan nashrni yozish uchun kelganida, uning munosabati va didi o'zgargan va baliqlarning xilma-xil turlari sotib olinishi mumkin edi.[28]

Bizning marketing tizimimizda juda ko'p narsalar oddiy va nozik ovqatlarga qarshi kurashmoqda. Pomidorlarning ta'mi yo'q. Do'konlarda eng yaxshi ta'mga ega kartoshka mavjud emas. Sabzavotlar va mevalar kamdan-kam yangi. Friziyaliklardan sut chiqadi. Pishloqlar bo'linadi va plastmassa o'ralgan holda qamaladi. "Farm fresh" deganda o'n, o'n to'rt yoki yigirma kundan oshmagan tuxumlar tushuniladi.

Grigson, kirish Ingliz taomlari [39]

Grigson o'zining 1974 yilgi ishini ochdi, Ingliz taomlari "ingliz tilida pishirish - ham tarixiy, ham og'izda - bizning masochistik xulq-atvorimiz bu masalada imkon qadar ancha xilma-xil va yoqimli".[39] Rojer Beyker kitobni o'qiyotganda, sharhlar ekan The Times, Grigsonni "so'nggi bir necha yil ichida paydo bo'lgan eng qiziq oziq-ovqat yozuvchisi" deb ta'riflagan[40] u kitobda "ko'ngil ochish, tarixga bo'lgan tuyg'u, juda o'qish uslubi va oddiy, ta'sirlanmaydigan oshpazlikni sevish" bor deb o'ylardi.[40] The Times keyinchalik tasvirlangan Ingliz taomlari "Elizabeth Dovudning frantsuz va italyan oshxonalari haqidagi kitoblari bilan bir qatorda ishlash".[36] Xolt yozishicha, kitob bilan "Grigson Britaniya orollarini tez-tez pishirish uchun salibchi bo'lgan"[41] u erta tanqidchiga aylandi batareyalarni etishtirish va oziq-ovqat mahsulotlarining isbotlanishi haqida ehtirosli.[6][n 5] Xuddi shu yili Grigson uning hissasini qo'shgan Jahon oziq-ovqat atlası. Kitobni oziq-ovqat muallifi Elizaveta Rey "tabiatiga ko'ra qimmat va yuzaki" deb ta'riflagan,[43] va Beyker tomonidan "har bir sahifada notinch chiziqlar ... yozuvdagi ingichka" mavjud.[40]

Keyingi uch yil ichida Grigson oziq-ovqatning asosiy toifalari bilan bog'liq kitoblarni ishlab chiqarishga qaytdi:[44] ikkita buklet, Sabzi tayyorlash va Ismaloqni pishirish bo'lib, 1975 yilda nashr etilgan Qo'ziqorinlar bayrami.[45] Ulardan oxirgisi tasvirlangan Kirkus sharhlari sifatida "Chiroyli retseptlar to'plami va oshpazlik ilmi"[46] sharhlovchi uchun Kuzatuvchi "Grigson sizga retseptlardan ko'proq narsani beradi. U sizni folklor va adabiyotning muhim yo'nalishlariga olib boradi" deb ta'kidladi.[47] Grigson buni "bir oilaning so'nggi yigirma yil ichida yovvoyi va etishtirilgan qo'ziqorinlarni ta'qib qilish rekordlari" deb ta'rifladi.[48] Uning boshqa ko'plab kitoblaridan farqli o'laroq, uning ilgari nashr etilgan maqolalari uchun juda kam qarzdor edi, ammo qo'ziqorinni sevadigan oilasi tajribasidan foydalangan. Zamburug'lar to'g'risida kitob yozish g'oyasi unga Troodagi do'sti Grigsonlarni qo'ziqorinlarni yig'ish bilan tanishtirgandan keyin keldi. U uchun, boshqa mahalliy aholi kabi, "qo'ziqorinlarni ovlash, u dehqon dehqon ajdodlaridan meros bo'lib qolgan isrofgarchiliksiz falsafaning bir qismi edi. ... qo'ziqorinlarni Frantsiyada pishirish yuqori an'analarining oshpazlari uzoq vaqtdan beri qabul qilishgan: bu erda yo'q biz ularni beparvolik bilan sarf qilishlariga yo'l qo'yib berish masalasi ".[49] U asta-sekin mavjud bo'lgan oz sonli kitob qo'ziqorin va boshqa qo'ziqorinlarga nisbatan adolatli bo'ladi degan xulosaga keldi: «Ko'pgina oshpazlik kitoblari - bundan mustasno Plats du Jour tomonidan Sabr Grey va Primrose Boyd - foydasiz ".[50] Birinchi nashrni ko'rib chiqib, Skeffington Ardron yozgan Guardian ko'plab retseptlar orasidan tanlov "sizni vahshiylikka olib keladi, chunki bu erda oddiy iqtisodiy idishlardan tortib, ekstravagant, imkonsiz, kulgili" gacha bo'lgan bunday ajoyib to'plam mavjud. Pulard Derbe shampan, foie gras va truffles bilan ".[51]

1978 yildan 1985 yilgacha

Antuan Raspal "s L'intérieur de cuisine ning 1980 yildagi Penguin nashri uchun qopqoq sifatida ishlatilgan Jeyn Grigsonning sabzavotli kitobi.

1978 yilda Grigson yozgan Jeyn Grigsonning sabzavotli kitobi. Birinchi nashrida kitobni ko'rib chiqish Petits Culinaires takliflari, Jeyn Devidson "Eruditsiya va kelishmovchilik har doim ham yotoqdoshlar emas. Ushbu kitobda ular bir-birlariga baxtli tarzda suqlanishadi ... bu ko'zga nur va hayolga jon bag'ishlaydi" deb yozgan.[52] Birinchi nashr haqida yozgan Robin McDouallning yozuvchisi The Times kitob "u tomonidan javonda turishga loyiq edi" Baliq oshxonasi va unga Charcuterie va frantsuz cho'chqa oshpazligi- maqtov bundan ham yuqoriga ko'tarilmas edi ". U ko'plab mamlakatlarning oshxonalari yopiq, ammo asosiylari frantsuz, yunon, turk va arablar ekanligini ta'kidladi.[53] Yilda The New York Times Mimi Sheraton kitob "retseptlar tarkibiga kiritilgan barcha sabzavotlarni foydali xarid qilish, saqlash va pishirish bo'yicha ma'lumotni katta, chiroyli jild" deb yozgan va taomlar assortimenti Evropa mutaxassisliklari bo'yicha kuchli bo'lsa, butun dunyoga tegishli ". Sheraton "ayniqsa yaxshi yasmiq retseptlari, ajoyib xushbo'y va qo'shib qo'yadigan sho'rvalar va chayote oshqovoq, Quddus artishoki va hop kurtaklari kabi unchalik noma'lum bo'lgan sabzavotlarga qiziqarli tayyorgarlik" haqida so'zlab berdi.[54] Uilsha, qog'ozli nashrini ko'rib chiqmoqda Guardian, Grigsonning "iliq va bilimdon uslubi ... sabzavotlarning ensiklopedik bayoni, ularning tarixi va zamonaviy oshxonalardagi o'rni" ni maqtagan.[55] 1986 yilda Guardian o'zlarining o'quvchilaridan eng zarur bo'lgan oshpazlik kitoblarini kashf qilish uchun so'roq qilishdi; Jeyn Grigsonning sabzavotli kitobi ikkinchi o'rinni Elizabeth Dovudnikidan ortda qoldirdi Frantsuz provinsiyasining oshpazligi lekin Dovud va uning tomonidan yozilgan boshqa kitoblaridan oldinda Madxur Jaffri, Delia Smit, Klaudiya Roden va Julia Child.[56]

1978 yil iyul oyida Grigson bilan suhbatlashdi Cho'l orollari disklari tomonidan Roy Plomli. Uning tanlovlari orasida erining she'riy yozuvlari, uning kitoblaridan biri bo'lgan.G'alati mamlakatdan eslatmalar- va uning hashamatli buyumlari sifatida yozuv mashinasi va qog'oz.[57][n 6]

Monet "s Le Déjeuner sur l'herbe; muqovasida rasmning bir qismi tasvirlangan Mashhurlar bilan birga ovqat (1979)

Grigson o'zining ustuniga yozgan bir qator maqolalardan so'ng Kuzatuvchi, u nashr etdi Mashhurlar bilan birga ovqat 1979 yilda, tarix davomida turli xil shaxslar tomonidan iste'mol qilingan ovqatga qarash.[58] Tanqidchi Kirkus sharhlari "Grigsonning bemalol tirnoq bilan yozilgan insholari deyarli tantalga soladi; oxir-oqibat haqiqat ma'lumotlarini sog'inishni boshlaydi (retseptlar bo'yicha moslashuv qaydlari va boshqalar)"[59] uchun sharhlovchi esa Birmingem Daily Post uni "oshpazlik kitobidan ko'ra, oziq-ovqat haqidagi maftunkor kitob" deb ta'riflagan.[60] 1979 yil oxiridan 1980 yilgacha oshpaz Anne Uillan o'n oltita qismdan iborat "Frantsiya oshpazlik maktabi" ni yozgan Kuzatuvchi.[61][27] Seriya kitobga aylantirildi, Observer frantsuz oshpazlik maktabi, Grigson haqida ma'lumot qo'shib qo'ygan holda Frantsuz oshxonasi.[62]

1981 yilda Grigson ikkinchisining ishtirokchisi edi Oziq-ovqat va oshpazlik bo'yicha Oksford simpoziumi, Elizabeth Dovud bilan birga. Simpoziumga oziq-ovqat tarixchisi asos solgan Alan Devidson va ijtimoiy tarixchi Teodor Zeldin.[63][64]

Grigson nashr etdi Jeyn Grigsonning mevalar kitobi 1982 yilda unga sheriklar kitobi Sabzavotlar haqida kitob.[65] Prue Leyt, cookies muharriri uchun Guardian"Kitob olma pirogidan tashqari g'oyalarni vaqtincha yo'qotib qo'ygan oshpaz uchun juda yaxshi o'qilgan va hayotiy asos bo'lgan. ... Bu erda adabiyot, tarixiy va sayohatiy latifalar mavjud, ular ishonchli ma'lumotlar bilan ishlangan".[66] Kitobni qayta ko'rib chiqish Nyu-York Tayms, Sheraton bu kitobni "hazil va xayrixohlik bilan muomala qilingan, amaliy ma'lumotlarning xilma-xilligi, jozibali retseptlar va romantik ilm-fan va oziq-ovqat tarixi bilan bir qatorda ... o'qish mumkin va ruhiy" deb yozgan.[67]

1983 yilda Grigson nashr etilgan Evropa oshpazligi bo'yicha kuzatuvchilar uchun qo'llanma. Gazeta uni 1981 yil boshlarida Evropa mamlakatlariga "oshpaz safari" deb atagan, ularning oshxonalarini o'rganish va yozish uchun yuborgan.[27][68] Siyosiy qiyinchiliklar va cheklangan jadval uni ko'plab mamlakatlarni sog'inishga majbur qildi; u tashrif buyurgan va u haqida yozganlar Yunoniston, Italiya, Ispaniya, Portugaliya, Frantsiya, Buyuk Britaniya, Skandinaviya mamlakatlari, Germaniya, Avstriya va Vengriya edi.[69] Sovet mulozimlarining samarasizligi va obstruktivligi tufayli Rossiyani tashlab yuborish ehtimoli bor edi, ammo Moskvada joylashgan do'sti Pamela Devidson buzg'unchilikka qadam qo'ydi va "Sovet fuqarolarining aniq ma'lumotlarini ko'rsatadigan" kitobning eng ma'lumotli qismini ishlab chiqardi. ovqatlaning va do'stlariga bering ".[68] Grigsonning tajribalari kitob shaklida nashr etilishidan oldin gazetada o'n haftalik seriya sifatida nashr etilgan.[69][70] Leyt, yilda Guardian, gazetadagi ustunlarni o'qiganiga qaramay, "ularni cheksiz zavq bilan yana o'qishga" muvaffaq bo'lganligini yozgan.[71] Oltmish daqiqali video tomonidan ishlab chiqarilgan Kuzatuvchi Grigsonning kitobning oltita retseptini tayyorlayotganini ko'rsatmoqda. Shona Crawford Poole, ko'rib chiqmoqda The Times"Grigsonning ma'qul uslubi ... juda yaxshi ma'noda ittifoqdosh" ekanligini ko'rsatdi.[72]

Grigsonning navbatdagi kitobi, Britaniya oshpazligi bo'yicha kuzatuvchilar uchun qo'llanma, 1984 yilda nashr etilgan bo'lib, u uchun Grigson va uning eri Buyuk Britaniyani aylanib, mahalliy narxlarni sinab ko'rishdi.[73] O'zining kirish so'zida u "Mening fikrimcha, agar biz oziq-ovqatimizning kelib chiqishi va uning maqsadga muvofiqligini ko'rib chiqsak, bu yordam beradi".[74] Uning kitobdan maqsadi "barchamizga taniqli va g'urur bilan o'zimizga xos darajalarda va uslubda, agar xohlasangiz, yaxshi halol ovqatni eng yaxshi usulini o'ylab ko'rishga undash" edi.[74] Alan Devidson, ko'rib chiqmoqda Petits Culinaires takliflari, Grigsonning ingliz taomlariga bo'lgan qiziqishini kuzatdi va "uning yozish sifati har doimgidek yorqin porlaydi" deb o'ylardi.[75] Jurnalist Digby Anderson, ko'rib chiqish Tomoshabin, uning maqolalaridan "Bu" kengaytirilgan Observer jurnali'. Shunday qilib, u toza Grigson emas, balki qo'shimchalar, konservantlar va juda ko'p sun'iy rang berish imkoniyatiga ega ", garchi u ruxsat bergan bo'lsa ham" Bu erda ajoyib retseptlar, yaxshi umumiy tavsiyalar va foydali maslahatlar mavjud. Britaniya oshpazligi".[76]

1985 yildan 1990 yilgacha

Geoffrey Grigson 1985 yil noyabr oyida vafot etdi.[77] Jeynning aytishicha, turmush qurganida "har bir kun jonli edi",[78] "u har bir oddiy kunni hayajonli va yashashga loyiq qildi".[79] Keyingi yil unga tashxis qo'yilgan bachadon bo'yni saratoni. Yozuvchiga yozgan xatida Kolin Spenser ko'p o'tmay, u shunday dedi: "Men birinchi marta saraton kasalligiga chalinganimda ... men uni cherkov hovlisiga qo'shilish fikrini mamnuniyat bilan qabul qildim".[79] Tibbiy davolanishdan so'ng saraton remissiya davriga o'tdi.[78]

Jefri vafotidan ko'p vaqt o'tmay, Jeyn Grigson oziq-ovqat lobbi sohasida faol rol o'ynay boshladi.[18] U hayvonlarning farovonligi uchun kampaniya o'tkazdi, u oziq-ovqat mahsulotlarini ishlab chiqarishni targ'ib qildi va kichik mulkdorlar.[7] Bu u uzoq vaqtdan beri muhim deb o'ylagan mavzu edi; 1971 yilda, kirish qismida Yaxshi ovqat, u yozgan:

Yaxshi ovqatni rag'batlantirish ochko'zlik yoki gurme emas; uni atrof-muhitning sifatiga g'amxo'rlik ko'rsatayotgani bilan ifloslanishga qarshi harakatning bir tomoni sifatida ko'rish mumkin. Bu bir nechta kranklarning cheklangan tashvishi emas. Kichik va o'rta firmalar gigantlarning arzon mahsulotlari bilan raqobatlashishga qodir emasliklarini his qilib, yaxshi oziq-ovqat mahsulotlarini ishlab chiqarishga kirishadilar. Suffolkdagi jasur cho'chqachilik yuqori charcuterie uslubida pishirilgan cho'chqa do'konini boshlaydi; mamlakatning ko'plab mintaqalarida odamlar mahalliy ovqatlarga ixtisoslashgan restoranlarni boshqaradilar; Kichik shaharchamizdagi baqqollik do'konlarida qadoqlangan un unli qoplarning ko'payib borayotgani va to'g'ridan-to'g'ri fermer xo'jaligidan tuxumlarga berilgan e'tiborni ko'raman.[80]

Masih cherkovi va uning cherkov hovlisi, Broad Town; ham Jeffri, ham Jeyn Grigson uchun qabriston

1988 yilda Grigson oldi Jon MakGregor, keyin Qishloq xo'jaligi, baliqchilik va oziq-ovqat vaziri, keyin topshiriq berish salmonella ingliz tuxumidan topilgan. U McGregorga "Men boshqa bir tadqiqot qo'mitasiga emas, balki harakatga maslahat beraman. Siz agrobiznesga ichimlik suvimizni zaharlashiga yo'l qo'yib berishingiz mumkin; u tuxum bilan qochib qutula olmaydi" dedi.[79][3] U atrofdagi rivojlanishga qarshi chiqish bilan ham shug'ullangan Avebury, YuNESKOning Jahon merosi ro'yxati.[81]

Grigsonning so'nggi yirik asari shu edi Ekzotik meva va sabzavotlar, 1986 yilda nashr etilgan.[69] 128 sahifalik jildga turtki noshirga taklif qilgan rassom Sharlot Noks tomonidan berildi, Jonathan Keyp, ekzotik meva va sabzavotlarning rangli rasmlari portfeli. Grigsonning "g'oyasi 19-asr uslubidagi albomni odamlar tomonidan hayajonlanishi, ularni sahifadan olib tashlab, o'zlari uchun sinab ko'rishlari uchun etarlicha yorqin plitalari bilan yaratish edi."[82]

Grigsonning saratoni 1989 yil o'rtalarida qaytdi va u boshidan kechirdi kimyoviy terapiya o'sha yilning sentyabr oyida;[78] u 1990 yil 12 martda Broad Townda vafot etdi. U qabristoniga dafn etilgan Masih cherkovi, mahalliy cherkov, Geoffrey bilan birga.[2] Grigsonni xotirlash marosimi bo'lib o'tdi Sent-Margarets, Vestminster, 1990 yil iyun oyida; tarjima so'zlari bilan ma'ruzachilar oziq-ovqat mualliflari edi Derek Kuper va Pol Levi.[83]

Eshittirish

Eshittirishdan qochgan Elizabeth Deviddan farqli o'laroq,[84][n 7] Grigson vaqti-vaqti bilan radio va televidenieda paydo bo'ldi. 1984 yilda u Prue Leytga qo'shildi, Anton Mosimann, Albert Rou va yana ikki kishi 4-kanal teleseriallar Olti oshpazni oling, unda taniqli oshpazlar birgalikda ovqatlanishdi Dorchester mehmonxonasi Londonda va har biri ma'lum bir taom yoki taomlar to'g'risida o'zlarining fikrlari va retseptlarini taqdim etdilar. Leyt taqdim etdi hors d'oeuvres, Mosimann baliqlari, Roux go'shti va Grigson sabzavotlari.[86] Uning sakkizta ketma-ketligi bilan bog'liq kitobga uning retseptlari kiritilgan. Odatdagidek, u klassik retseptlarni aralashtirib yubordi -sabzi à la Forestière[n 8] frantsuzcha uslubda no'xat piyoz va marul bilan - keng loviya pyuresi bilan to'ldirilgan artishok kabi unchalik taniqli bo'lmagan taomlar bilan.[88]

Bi-bi-si radiosida u intervyu va panel muhokamalarida qatnashdi, ingredientlar haqida o'z fikrlarini va texnikaga oid tavsiyalarini berdi,[89] va 1989 yilgi dasturda u portretini taqdim etdi Elizabeth Raffald va uning 18-asr retseptlari.[90] BBC televideniyesida u o'zining qahramonlarini - Elizabeth Devidni, Genri Jeyms va Geoffrey Grigson,[91] g'ozni qanday qovurish va to'ldirishni ko'rsatib berdi, Britaniyaning eng yaxshi yangi mahsulotlarini qidirishga kirishdi, sog'lig'i uchun sabzavot tayyorlash haqida maslahat berdi va boshqa oshpazlarga qo'shildi Savoy mehmonxonasi klassik taomlarni tayyorlashga urinayotgan shou-biznes yulduzlarini nazorat qilish.[92]

Ishlaydi

Jeyn Grigsonning kitoblari
NashriyotchiYilSahifalarIllustratorOCLC / ISBNIzohlar
Scano Boa Gian Antonio Cibotto tomonidanHodder va Stoughton1963126–OCLC  559238388Jeyn Grigson tomonidan tarjima qilingan
Jinoyatlar va jazolar Cesare Beccari tomonidanOksford universiteti matbuoti1964212–OCLC  772779957Grigson tomonidan tarjima qilingan. Jildda Allesandro Manzoni ham bor Sharmandalik ustuni Kenelm Foster tomonidan tarjima qilingan
Shakllar va hikoyalarJon Beyker196465Turli xilOCLC  10474314Geoffrey Grigson bilan hamkorlik
Shakllar va sarguzashtlarJon Marshbank196770Turli xilOCLC  458336Geoffrey Grigson bilan hamkorlik
Charcuterie va frantsuz cho'chqa oshpazligiMaykl Jozef1967308M.J.MottOCLC  13034368
Yaxshi narsalarMaykl Jozef1971323M.J.MottISBN  978-0-7181-0728-4
Baliq oshxonasiXalqaro sharob va oziq-ovqat jamiyati1973288Kennet SwainISBN  978-0-7153-6100-9Dastlab nashr etilgan Xalqaro sharob va oziq-ovqat jamiyatining baliq pishirish bo'yicha qo'llanmasi. Sarlavha 1975 yilda Penguen qog'ozli qog'ozi sifatida nashr etilganidan beri hozirgi shakliga qisqartirildi.[93]
Ingliz taomlariMakmillan1974322Gillian ZeinerOCLC  872651932
Jahon oziq-ovqat atlasıMitchell Beazley1974319Ed Day va boshqalarISBN  978-0-600-55929-0
Qo'ziqorinlar bayramiMaykl Jozef1975303Yvonne SkargonISBN  978-0-7181-1253-0
Sabzi tayyorlashAbson kitoblari197536–ISBN  978-0-902920-19-4
Ismaloqni pishirishAbson kitoblari197636–ISBN  978-0-902920-24-8
Jeyn Grigsonning sabzavotli kitobiMaykl Jozef1978607Yvonne SkargonISBN  978-0-7181-1675-0
Mashhurlar bilan birga ovqatMaykl Jozef1979256Turli xil (asl portretlarning reproduktsiyalari)ISBN  978-0-7181-1855-6
Observer frantsuz oshpazlik maktabiMakdonald Futura1980305Rojer Fillips va boshqalarISBN  978-0-354-04523-0(Grigson tomonidan 47 sahifa; Enn Uillan tomonidan 258 ta)
Jeyn Grigsonning mevalar kitobiMaykl Jozef1982508Yvonne SkargonISBN  978-0-7181-2125-9
Frantsuzlar yiliUorren198216Glinn Boyd XartISBN  978-0-9505969-6-9
Evropa oshpazligi bo'yicha kuzatuvchilar uchun qo'llanmaMaykl Jozef1983266Turli xilISBN  978-0-7181-2233-1Noma'lum ko'plab rangli fotosuratlar Kuzatuvchi fotograflar
Britaniya oshpazligi bo'yicha kuzatuvchilar uchun qo'llanmaMaykl Jozef1984232Jorj Rayt va boshqalarISBN  978-0-7181-2446-5
O'rta er dengizi idishlariVudxed Folkner198496Robert Oltin va Mendi DoylOCLC  57356351
Ekzotik meva va sabzavotlarJonathan Keyp1986128Sharlotta NoksISBN  978-0-224-02138-8
Normandiyaning pishishiMartin kitoblari198796Lori Evans va Mendi DoylISBN  978-0-85941-486-9
Ovqatdan lazzatlanish: Jeyn Grigsonning eng yaxshisiMaykl Jozef1992464Turli xilISBN  978-0-7181-3562-1
Jeyn Grigsonning PishiriqlarMaykl Jozef199392Sara MakmenemiISBN  978-0-7181-0043-8Majburiy yoki sarlavha sahifasida emas, balki chang ko'ylagi ustiga "Best of the Best" sarlavhadan oldin kichikroq turda qo'shiladi.[94]
Jeyn Grigsonning sho'rvalariMaykl Jozef199392Jeyn SkrotISBN  978-0-7181-0042-1Yuqoridagi kabi, chang ko'ylagi qo'shimcha so'zlarga ega, "Eng yaxshi".[95]
PudinglarPingvin199664–ISBN  978-0-14-095348-0

1960-yillar

Charcuterie va frantsuz cho'chqa oshpazligi (1967)

frantsuzcha oziq-ovqat do'konining ichki qismi, shiftga ilmoqlarga osilgan kolbasa va jambonlar va javonlarda charcuterie mahsulotlarining bankalari
Frantsuz charcuterie

Grigsonning oziq-ovqat va oshpazlik haqidagi birinchi kitobi Charcuterie va frantsuz cho'chqa oshpazligitomonidan nashr etilgan Maykl Jozef 1967 yilda.[96] Evropa qishloq xo'jaligi va oshxonasida cho'chqa tarixi haqida qisqacha ma'lumotdan so'ng,[97] asosiy matn "Charcutier do'koniga piknik bo'yicha qo'llanma" bilan boshlanadi, unda muallif yaxshi frantsuz charcuterie-da mavjud bo'lgan cho'chqa go'shti mahsulotlarini batafsil bayon qiladi. Ular, masalan, eyishga tayyor idishlarni o'z ichiga oladi rilletlar; patezlar; pishgan va davolangan jambon (masalan jambonlar de York va de Bayonne ); va pishirilgan kolbasa salom va boshqa turlari. Ovqat pishirishni talab qiladigan idishlar orasida cho'chqalarning yirtqichlari; kolbasa, shu jumladan andilyetlar; qora pudinglar; va qimmatroq, boudinlar. Shuningdek, yangi cho'chqa go'shti boshdan quyruqgacha (tete va queue de porc).[98]

Keyinchalik boblar charcuterie uskunalari bilan bog'liq;[99] o'tlar va ziravorlar;[100] souslar va lazzatlar.[101] Ulardan keyin terrinlar, patezlar (sovuq va issiq) va galantinlar retseptlarining to'rtta boblari keltirilgan;[102] kolbasa va boudinli blankalar;[103] cho'chqa go'shti va jambonlari;[104] va yangi cho'chqa go'shtining asosiy qismlari.[105] Oxirgi to'rtta bob "Ekstremalliklar" "Ichkarida" "Yog '" va "Qon" (qora pudinglar) ni o'z ichiga oladi.[106] Butun davomida M.J.Mottning chizilgan chizilgan rasmlari mavjud.[96]

Birinchi Amerika nashri nashr etilganda, 1968 yilda,[n 9] oshpazlik bo'yicha AQShning uchta etakchi yozuvchisi - Julia Child, Jeyms Soqol va Maykl Fild Uni "Yilning eng yaxshi oshpazlari kitobi" deb nomladi.[109] Britaniyada, Pingvin kitoblari 1970 yilda qog'ozli nashrni nashr etdi. Kitob 1990 yillarning oxirlarida bir muncha vaqt bosmadan chiqdi - oziq-ovqat muxbiri Guardian o'quvchilarni noshirlarga yozish va ularni bezovta qilib qayta nashr etishga undashdi.[110]- ammo 2001 yilda qayta nashr etilgan va (2019 yilda) o'sha paytdan beri nashrda qolmoqda.[n 10] 2001 yilda bosh oshpaz Kris Galvin kitobni "asar" deb atagan:

juda ma'lumotli va yaxshi yozilgan ... sizning yordamingizda kimdir borligini his qiladi, retsept bo'yicha sizni boshqaradi, keraksiz texnik atamalardan qochadi va buning o'rniga universal so'zlar va iboralarni ishlatadi, masalan. "ingredientlarni bir-biriga aylantirish", "qaynab ketish va stokni chopmaslik". Eng muhimi, Grigson sizni, masalan, kolbasa tayyorlash oddiy ish ekanligini ta'kidlab, idish-tovoqlarni sinab ko'rishga undaydi, so'ngra ushbu bayonotga binoan saucisse fumé, saucisse de campagne va saussicon sek.[111]

Kitobning tarjimalari golland tilida nashr etilgan (Eng yomoni, Paté: en andere Charcuterie uit de Franse Keuken)[112] va frantsuz tilida ingliz muallifining oziq-ovqat haqidagi kitobi uchun odatiy bo'lmagan.[113]

1970-yillar

Yaxshi narsalar (1971)

bitta, yorqin sariq behi fotosurati
A behi: ko'rsatilgan oltita mevadan biri Yaxshi narsalar

Kitobning bo'limlarida baliq, go'sht va ov, sabzavot va mevalar haqida so'z yuritilib, xulosa qilish kerak. Keyinchalik Grigsonning ba'zi kitoblarida u o'ziga xos ingredientlar bilan to'liq shug'ullangan: u Baliq oshxonasi ikki yildan so'ng baliqning ellikdan ortiq navlarini qamrab oldi. Bu erda u beshta bilan shug'ullanadi: kippers, lobster, midiya, taroq va alabalıklar, ozgina tanlagan mavzulari haqida keyingi kitobga qaraganda kengroq yozgan va turli retseptlarning ijobiy va salbiy tomonlarini muhokama qilgan. U lobsterlar haqida aytadiki, bundan ham mazali, shu qadar shirin, qat'iyatli va suvli narsa yo'qki, ularni o'ldirishning eng insonparvarlik usuli muhokama qilinadi va garchi ularni eng yaxshi limon sharbati va sariyog 'bilan issiq holda iste'mol qilish kerak degan taklif ilgari surilgan bo'lsa-da, homard à l'Americaine uchun retseptlar (iqtibos keltirgan holda) Eduard de Pomiane bu "gastronomik kakofoniya" deb qarash) va Termidor, shu qatorda; shu bilan birga bisque, u uni "malakasiz ... barcha oshlarning eng yaxshisi" deb ataydi.[114][n 11]

Grigson boshqa bo'limlarda xuddi shunday yondashuvni yaxshi ko'radigan ingredientlar va idishlar bilan bo'sh vaqt o'tkazish bilan shug'ullanadi. Uning tanlovi boshqa oshpazlik kitoblarida ham tez-tez uchrab turmaydi: go'sht bo'limida u sakkizta sahifani salyangozlarga, o'ntasini shirin nonlarga bag'ishlaydi, biftek va qovurilganlarga esa yo'q.[116] U yozgan oltita meva orasida olma va qulupnayga behi va olxo'ri qo'shiladi. U quritilgan quritilgan o'rikning maktabda yoki qamoqxonada - "olxo'ri va guruch yoki quritilgan o'rik bilan smetana kukuni o'rtasidagi dahshatli ittifoq" ni eng yaxshi unutganiga rozi bo'lib, uni go'sht va baliq ovqatlarining an'anaviy tarkibiy qismiga aylantiradi. olxo'ri bilan o'ralgan mol go'shti yoki quyon, quritilgan o'rik bilan kurka va olxo'ri bilan asta-sekin uchib ketadigan mischalar.[117] Oxirgi bo'limda u beshta frantsuz keki, muzqaymoq va sorbets va mevali likyorlarni o'z ichiga oladi.[118]

WorldCat ning 21 ta nashrini qayd etadi Yaxshi narsalar 1971 yildan 2009 yilgacha ingliz va tarjimada nashr etilgan.[119] Asl nashrda to'rt yil oldingi charcuterie kitobi singari M.J.Mottning chizilgan rasmlari bor edi.[120] Tomonidan qayta nashr etilgan Folio jamiyati 2009 yilda Elis Tait tomonidan tasvirlangan, ba'zilari rangli edi.[121]

Baliq oshxonasi (1973)

Kitob birinchi bo'lib nashr etilgan Xalqaro sharob va oziq-ovqat jamiyatining baliq pishirish bo'yicha qo'llanmasi 1973 yilda, ammo 1975 yilda Penguin tomonidan chiqarilgan qisqa nom bilan qog'oz shaklida keng tanilgan.[122] Grigson retseptlarda haqiqatan ham asl narsa borligiga ishonmasdi va boshqa mualliflarning kitoblarini baxtli ravishda o'z kitoblariga kiritgan, manbalarini tan olishdan ehtiyotkorlik bilan - "Intellektual halollikda yangi narsa yo'q".[123] Uning ta'siri nafaqat evropalik edi: u unga ishonganlar orasida Baliq oshxonasi (1973) Klaudiya Rodenga tegishli edi Yaqin Sharq taomlari kitobi, Meri Qo'ziningniki Yangi Orlean oshxonasi va Jeyms Beard's Zavq va xurofotlar.[124] Shunga qaramay, Baliq oshxonasi Grigsonning ingliz oshpaziga ko'proq e'tibor qaratgan kitoblaridan biri,[n 12] chunki, u kuzatganidek, bir xil qutulish mumkin bo'lgan qushlar va to'rtaklilar dunyoning ko'p qismlarida uchraydi, lekin baliq turlari odatda ma'lum joylarda cheklangan. Ushbu cheklovni hisobga olgan holda ham Grigson britaniyalik o'quvchilarni yangi baliqlarni tanlashda ko'proq avantyur bo'lishga undaydi. U Britaniya suvlariga xos ellikdan ortiq turlar mavjudligini, shu jumladan qisqichbaqasimonlar yoki chuchuk suv baliqlarini hisobga olmaganda, u oshpazlarni "pishgan va yog'li xamir bilan ishlangan" cod va plaice "dan tashqariga chiqishga undaydi.[126]

yaxlit baliqning fotosurati
Dover tagligi: Grigson nazarida eng yaxshi baliqlar orasida

Boblari Baliq oshxonasi "Baliq tanlash, tozalash va pishirish" "Sud-bulonlar, Soslar va sariyog '"" Baliq pishiriqlari va sho'rvalar "" Yassi baliqlar "" Dengizdan ko'proq baliqlar "" Buyuk baliqlar "" Toza suvda tutilgan baliqlar "" Qisqichbaqasimon va qisqichbaqasimonlar "" va "Sog'aygan va saqlanib qolgan baliqlar". Kitob baliq nomlarining lug'atlari va pazandalik atamalari va o'lchovlari bilan yakunlanadi.[127] Oltinchi bobning sarlavhasidagi "buyuk" alohida ustunlikka emas, balki hajmga ishora qiladi: u o'z ichiga oladi orkinos, qilich-baliq, akula va quyosh baliqlari.[128] Grigson buyuklikni sifatli ma'noda faqat dengiz baliqlari orasida yagona va turbotga, toza suv turlari orasida alabalık va lososga, shuningdek, ilon, lobster va qisqichbaqalar uchun ajratadi.[129]

Shuningdek, yagona Véronique kabi klassikalar,[130] bouillabaisse,[131] moules marinière,[132] va lobster Thermidor,[133] Grigson ingredientlarning noodatiy birikmalariga retseptlar beradi, jumladan Gruyer pishloq sousi bilan cod bifteklari,[134] Bektoshi uzumlari bilan seld,[135] taroq va artishok sho'rva,[136] pomidor, qaymoq va vermut sousidagi qisqichbaqalar.[137]

Midiya haqidagi bo'limdagi bayonot nashr etilganidan bir necha yil o'tgach, kichik tortishuvlarga olib keldi. Grigsonning so'zlariga ko'ra, midiya pishirilgandan keyin ochilmagan narsalarni tashlab yuborish kerak.[138][n 13] U hech qanday sabab bermaydi, lekin ko'plab keyingi yozuvchilar buni yopiq midiya iste'mol qilish shunchaki amaliy emas, balki zararli deb o'ylashgan.[140] Avstraliyaning Baliqchilik Tadqiqot va Rivojlanish Korporatsiyasi 2012 yilda ushbu taxminni rad etish uchun tadqiqotlarni e'lon qildi.[140][n 14]

Grigson vafot etganda kitobning qayta ishlangan matni uchdan ikki qismini to'ldirgan edi. Uning muharriri Jenni Derexem 1973 yildan beri Grigson tomonidan nashr etilgan qo'shimcha retseptlar va maqolalardan foydalangan holda qayta ko'rib chiqishni yakunladi. Jeyn Grigsonning baliq kitobi 1993 yilda Maykl Jozefning qattiq qavatida va Penguinning qog'ozli qog'ozida.[141] In yangi nashrini ko'rib chiqish Mustaqil, Maykl Leapmanning yozishicha, retseptlarning aksariyati hozirgi didni aks ettiruvchi yangilangan - "qaymoq va sariyog 'biroz kamroq" va Grigson birinchi nashr o'quvchilari uchun unchalik ma'lum bo'lmagan yangi yo'nalishlarni o'rganganligi haqida eslatib o'tdi, masalan. sashimi va ceviche.[142]

Ingliz taomlari (1974)

Kitobda "Jeyn Grigson tanlagan antologiya" degan taglavha bor. Avvalgi kitoblarida bo'lgani kabi, Grigson ham retseptlarida o'ziga xosligi haqida hech qanday da'vo qilmagan va taniqli muallifga ega bo'lganlar uchun kredit berishda ehtiyotkorlik bilan harakat qilgan. Bo'limlar sho'rvalarni o'z ichiga oladi; pishloq va tuxum idishlari; sabzavotlar; baliq; go'sht, parrandachilik va ov; pudinglar; pirojnoe, pechene va krep; to'ldirilgan narsalar, souslar va konservalar. Gillian Zeinerning chizilgan rasmlari oshxona texnikasi, materiallari va jihozlarining tafsilotlarini aks ettiradi.[143] Kirish Grigsonning ingliz tilida yaxshi ovqat tayyorlash va uning pasayishi haqidagi fikrlarini bayon qiladi. Kirishning yana bir jihati shundan iboratki, Frantsiyada oshpazlik bo'yicha yozuvchilarning aksariyati erkaklar bo'lgan bo'lsa, Angliyada bu ayol yozuvchilar. Xanna Glasse va Eliza Acton, kim ajralib turadi. Ularning ko'plab retseptlari keyingi boblarga kiritilgan. 1979 yil qayta ko'rib chiqilgan nashrga kirish ingliz taomlarining holatini kengaytiradi va ingliz maktablarida oshpazlikni yaxshiroq o'qitishni talab qiladi. Grigson mahalliy va mahalliy ishlab chiqariladigan oziq-ovqat mahsulotlarining afzalliklarini ta'kidlab, u aytadiki, bu nafaqat katta tijorat konsernlari taklif qilgandan ko'ra yaxshiroq, balki odatda arzonroqdir: "" yangi "va" uy qurilishi "kabi so'zlar tijorat tomonidan qarzga olingan yolg'on gapiring. "[143]

yarim dumaloq pirog o'tirgan plastinka; uning oltin-jigarrang po'stlog'i va qirrasi bor
Cornish pasty

2010 yildagi "50 ta eng yaxshi oshxona kitoblari" ni o'rganish paytida, Reychel Kuk Grigsonning "ko'plab ajoyib kitoblari" ning qaysi biri eng zo'r ekanligi munozarali, ammo u har doim eng mashhur bo'lib qoladigan kitob Ingliz taomlari"Kuk tanqidchining so'zlarini keltiradi Fay Maschler Grigson "ingliz taomlari mavzusidagi mag'rurlikni qayta tikladi va bu biroz yomon ahvolga tushib qolgan oshxonada hanuzgacha mavjud bo'lgan mintaqaviy sifat mavjudligini isbotladi".[144]

Kitobda asosan ingliz tilidagi retseptlar mavjud, ammo vaqti-vaqti bilan Uels va Shotlandiyaning oshxonalaridan tortib olinadi.[145] Kuk buni "shubhasiz stipendiya asari: puxta o'rganilgan, keng ko'lamli va nihoyatda o'ziga xos" deb ta'riflaydi, ammo unda "yuzlab ajoyib retseptlar mavjud, ularning aksariyati qisqa, aniq va aqldan ozishlidir. qisqichbaqalar sousi yoki to'g'ri tayyorlangan korniş xamiri? " Kitobdagi pudinglar orasida Yorkshire curd tart, brown bread ice cream, queen of puddings va Sasseks ko'lining pudingi.[144]

English Food g'olib bo'ldi Glenfiddich Award for the cookery book of the year, 1974.[143] A new edition, with an introduction by Sophie Grigson, was published by Ebury Press, London, in 2002. Reviewing it, Lindsi Barexem wrote, "If you don't already own a copy of this seminal book, now is the time to invest in our edible heritage made digestible by one of the finest writers we have ever produced".[146]

The World Atlas of Food (1974)

Subtitled "A Gourmet's Guide to the Great Regional Dishes of the World", this 319-page book was published by Mitchell Beazley, a company specialising in atlases and other extensively illustrated works of reference.[147] Grigson is credited as "contributing editor".[n 15] James Beard wrote the introduction, titled "An epicurean journey". The book has pages illustrating and describing ingredients of the various areas of the world—fish, meat, vegetables, fungi and fruit. The cuisines of Europe, Africa, Asia, Australasia and the Americas are covered. [149] The American edition was published by Simon and Shuster in 1974. The book was reissued in Australia and the US in 1984 and in Britain in 1988 and was reprinted in 1989.[149]

The Mushroom Feast (1975)

The Mushroom Feast was published by Michael Joseph in 1975.[150]

o'rmonzorda o'sayotgan qo'ziqorinlarning fotosurati
Cèpes

The book is in six chapters. The first, "The best edible mushrooms", has descriptions of twenty varieties of mushroom, from the familiar cultivated Agaricus bisporus, ahvol, cpes, girolles va istiridye, to the less well known matsutake, shol, shaggy cap, wood-blewit va boshqalar. Each is illustrated with a line drawing by Yvonne Skargon, and followed by descriptions of the flavour and basic cooking instructions.[151] The next chapter, dealing with preserved mushrooms, sauces, stuffings, and soups, gives modern and old recipes, including some by Hannah Glasse, Eliza Acton, Mari-Antuan Kare, Xilda Leyel and Grigson's mentor and friend Elizabeth David.[152]

In the chapter on mushroom main dishes[153]—such as in an open tart or a covered pie, in a gateau with cream, or stuffed with almonds, or baked in the Genuyaliklar uslubi[154]—other ingredients play a subordinate part in the recipes, but are given more prominence in "Mushrooms with fish"[155] and "Mushrooms with meat, poultry, and game".[156] After a section on the principal mushrooms of Japanese and Chinese cooking, an appendix gives five basic recipes for sauces to accompany mushrooms.[157]

WorldCat records 18 editions of the book published between 1975 and 2008.[119]

Jeyn Grigsonning sabzavotli kitobi (1978)

To'rtta nomlangan sabzavotlarning fotosuratlari
Grigson's vegetable heroes and villains: clockwise from top left artishok, sarsabil, shved va qayla

For this book Grigson adopted a straightforward alphabetical layout. There are chapters on more than eighty vegetables, from artishok ga yams. Most chapters are in three parts: brief historical information about the vegetables, guidance on preparing them, and recipes using them. The author does not play down her own likes and dislikes; she praises artichokes[n 16] va sarsabil as "the two finest vegetables we can grow",[159] but calls winter turnips va shvedlar "that grim pair", and admits to a lifelong detestation of qayla.[160] Seakale, on the other hand, she rates highly, not only for its delicate flavour, but as the only vegetable in the entire book native to England.[161]

Grigson considered omitting mushrooms from the book, on the grounds that they are not a vegetable and that she had already devoted a whole book to them in 1975,[162] but decided that "leaving them out won't do", and gave them a two-page chapter, covering their choice and preparation, and giving recipes for mushroom soup and mushroom pie.[163] Also included are savoury fruits such as avokado va pomidor. As well as ingredients familiar in European cuisine, Grigson includes sections on loviya nihollari, Chinese artichokes, bamya, Shirin kartoshka, pignuts and other vegetables less well known among her readership in the 1970s.[164] The longest chapters are those on lettuces (13 pages), spinach and tomatoes (both 18 pages) and potatoes (24 pages).[165]

In her preface to the first American edition in 1979, Grigson observed that although British and American cooks found each other's systems of measurement confusing (citing the US use of volume rather than weight for solid ingredients), the two countries were at one in suffering from supermarkets' obsession with the appearance rather than the flavour of vegetables.[166]

The book brought its author her first Glenfiddich Food and Drink Writer of the Year Award and the first of two Andre Simon Memorial Prizes. [1][167]

Food With the Famous (1979)

The book has its origins in a series of articles Grigson wrote for The Observer's colour magazine in 1978, and is described as part cookery book and part social history.[168] Her publisher wrote that she "re-read favourite novels, re-examined pictures in the great galleries, explored houses, letters, journals, and the cookery books used (or written) by her choice of famous men and women".[168] Starting with "the great diarist and salad fancier" Jon Evelin in the 17th century, she traces a chronological development of western cooking. Her other examples are from the 18th century (Parson James Woodforde ), the cusp of the 18th and 19th (Jeyn Ostin, Tomas Jefferson, va Rev Sydney Smith ), the high-19th (Lord and Lady Shaftesbury, Aleksandr Dyuma va Emil Zola ); and on into the 20th "with Marsel Prust in the gourmet's Paris, and Klod Monet among the water-lilies at Giverny ".[168]

XVII asr kostyumidagi odam
Jon Evelin
19-asr boshidagi ayol kostyumi
Jeyn Ostin
19-asr kostyumidagi soqolli odamning boshi va yelkalarini chizish
Aleksandr Dyuma

In the introduction to Evelyn's chapter, Grigson describes his contribution to British food—translating the works of Jan-Batist de La Kvintini, promoting ice-houses and recording the earliest example of the bosimli pishirgich.[169] She quotes him on vegetables, for instance on beetroot: "vulgar, but eaten with oil and vinegar, as usually, it is no despicable salad." [170] Evelyn's garden was organised so that mixed green salad could be put on the table every day of the year; Grigson lists the 35 different species from balm to tripe-madam[n 17] that Evelyn specified for his salads.[172] For the chapters on the novelists, Grigson gives recipes for dishes mentioned in their books, including white soup[n 18] va fricassée ning shirin non for Jane Austen,[174] asparagus soup à la comtesse, and fillets of sole with ravigote sauce for Zola,[175] brill Radziwill and boeuf à la mode for Proust,[176] and for Dumas, who published a book about food,[n 19] she prints his own recipes for cabbage soup, scrambled eggs with shrimps, and several others.[178]

Although Grigson's favourite of her works was the 1982 fruit book, she said she had a particular fondness for Food With the Famous.[123]

1980-yillar

The Observer French Cookery School (1980)

This book was a spin-off from an Kuzatuvchi seriyali. Its two authors, Grigson and Anne Willan of La Varenne cookery school in Paris, augmented their Kuzatuvchi articles for the book. Willan's sections, occupying the majority of the 300 pages, give technical advice on various aspects of cooking, such as boning, making choux pastry, the use of gelatine, and cooking with meyn. A 1991 bibliography describes Grigson's section—a 47-page "Anthology of French cooking and kitchen terms"—as "an alphabetic listing of descriptions written in condensed but detailed prose, full of personal observation; almost a little book in itself".[179]

Jeyn Grigsonning mevalar kitobi (1982)

For Grigson, this book was more fun to write than any of her others.[180] Her particular fondness for fruits caused her to protest in her introduction about the quality offered by large suppliers:

The food trade makes the egalitarian mistake, which is also a convenience for itself, of thinking that every food has to be as cheap and inoffensive as every other similar food. This mistake has ruined chicken and potatoes and bread. No wine merchant sells only plonk, no flower shop sticks to daisies. In the matter of vegetables and fruit, we seem often to be reduced to a steady bottom of horticultural plonk.[181]
mayda, jigarrang, yumaloq mevalarga to'la savat
Medlars

The layout follows that of the vegetable book of three years earlier: chapters on each fruit, set out alphabetically from apples to water-melon. In between, familiar fruits such as bananas, cherries, pears and strawberries are interspersed with cherimoyalar, medlar, xurmo va sapodillas.[182] There are 46 of these chapters, taking 432 pages.[182] The book finishes with a miscellany of fruit-related topics, such as matching fruits and wines, fruit preserves, and recipes for biscuits suitable to eat with fruit.[183]

As well as recipes in which the fruit is the star ingredient, Grigson gives details of many dishes where fruit is combined with meat, poultry or fish, including pheasant with apples,[184] lamb with apricots,[185] sole with banana,[186] quail with cherries,[187] oxtail with grapes,[188] and eel soup with pears.[189] As in the vegetable book, Grigson is clear about her likes and dislikes. "Rhubarb: Nanny-food. Governess-food. School-meal-food." She finds some recipes for it worth including, but falls short of calling them delectable—"merely not too undelectable".[190]

Reviewing the book in Petits Culinaires takliflari, Jane Davidson called it "brilliant", adding, "Anecdotes, history, poetry and personal appreciation are all here as well as practical suggestions on how to use both the familiar and less so. ... In Mishel til, to'rt stars and olti place settings".[191][n 20] Like the Vegetable Book, this one won Grigson a Glenfiddich and an André Simon award.[1][193]

The Observer Guide to European Cookery (1983)

pishirilgan, dilimlenmiş baqlajonlarning idishi
Parmigiana di melanzane

Grigson published The Observer Guide to European Cookery in 1983. She expanded her original articles from Kuzatuvchi into this 256-page book, extensively illustrated by uncredited Kuzatuvchi fotograflar.[69] A reviewer commented that one might expect the author, her life based partly in France, to begin with French cuisine,[194] but Grigson explains:

Greece comes first, with classical and Hellenic chefs already theorising about food in terms that do not seem odd today. In terms that make perfect sense. Italy took on the skills of Greece, since well-off Romans employed chefs from Athens just as well-off Northerners have looked to Paris for their chefs. Through Spain, Arab dishes and Arab gardening, as well as new vegetables and foods from America, were handed on to the rest of Europe. Portugal comes in here, in its great phase of travel and discovery. France next, in the perfect, unique position between Mediterranean and Atlantic seas, exactly poised to take advantage of the Renaissance and the New World.[195]

In each chapter Grigson mixes the well known and the offbeat. In the opening Greek chapter, recipes for taramasalata, moussaka va dolmades sit alongside hare in walnut sauce and salad of calf brains.[196] Italian recipes include classics such as osso buco bilan risotto milanese, Parmigiana di melanzane and vitello tonnato,[197] but also grilled eel, sole with Parmesan, tripe with pig's trotters, and lamb qovurilgan with olives.[198] Similar juxtapositions are found in other chapters—Portuguese cuisine beyond sardines,[199] British beyond steak and kidney pudding,[200] and Scandinavian beyond smörgåsbord.[194][201] Among the less well-known dishes described by Grigson are beef fillet with gentleman's sauce,[202][n 21]chicken in a dressing-gown,[203][n 22] chilled grape soup,[204] quaking pudding,[205] red wine soup,[206] and Siberian ravioli.[207]

In the US the book was published in 1983 by Atheneum, under the title Jane Grigson's Book of European Cookery.[69]

The Observer Guide to British Cookery (1984)

This 231-page book is similar in layout and approach to the previous year's guide to European cooking, but unlike its predecessor it was published in book form before recipes from it were extracted and printed by the newspaper. The British regions are considered in nine sections, each with an introduction describing the character and ingredients, followed by recipes associated with places within the region.[208]

mayiz bilan o'ralgan oltin jigarrang pechene plitasi
Shrewsbury cakes

The South-West chapter includes Cornish bouillabaisse from Gidli Park; Sedgemoor eel stew; lardy cake; and "Cornwall's most famous and most travestied dish", the Cornish pasty —"pronounced with a long 'ah' as in Amen".[209] Among the dishes in the London and the South section are steak and kidney pudding, using beef rump steak and lambs' kidneys; mol go'shti; va non va sariyog 'pudingi.[210] Dishes from the Midlands include rabbit and pig tail stew; Oldberi gooseberry pies; Pishiriq pudingi; va Shrewsbury cakes.[211] The East Anglia section includes turnip pie; to'ldirilgan gvineya qushi; Linkolnshir plum bread; and, for its connection with Trinity kolleji, Kembrij, crème brûlée.[212]

In the North East chapter Grigson includes recipes for mutton and leek broth, mussel or oyster pudding and teshikda qurbaqa.[213] Dishes from the North West include kastryulkalar, Lancashire hotpot, Liverpool's turmush o'rtoq, Cumberland kolbasa and the chicken dish Xindl uyg'onishi.[214] Throughout the book Grigson includes lesser-known dishes alongside famous classics. The chapter on Scotland has recipes for Shotland bulyoni, Xaggis, Atoll bros va qisqa non yonma-yon Scotch woodcock and the sheep's head broth Povowdi.[215] Among the Welsh dishes, panja va Uels quyoni[n 23] are joined by caveach (pickled mackerel) and Lady Lanover 's salt duck.[218] In the final chapter, Ireland, Irlandiyalik stew va sodali non are included alongside nettle soup and boxty (potato pancakes).[219]

Each chapter concludes with a section contributed by Derek Cooper on "Regional drink". For the English regions and Wales the drinks are mostly beers and ciders, with some wines in the south. Sloe jin is included for Kumbriya bo'lgani kabi viski Shotlandiya uchun va viski va dadil for Ireland.[220]

Exotic Fruits and Vegetables (1986)

dumaloq, to'q sariq rangli mevalar, bitta butun va yarmi kesilgan
Persimmons

The illustrations play a particularly large part in this book, and the artist, Charlotte Knox, is given equal billing on the covers of both the British and the American editions. The book is described by its publisher as "An illustrated guide to fruits and vegetables from the world's hotter climates."[221] Grigson added notes on the choice, preparation, and culinary use of each fruit or vegetable, and recipes using them. Bunga quyidagilar kiradi Mango va karambola salat,[222] mango and panja panjasi tart,[223] persimmon fudge, [224] and grey mullet with anor sauce in the fruit chapters,[225] and in the vegetable sections, chinor va tovuq go'shti,[226] snake gourd Malay style,[227] baraban tayoqchasi curry with prawns,[228] and yam and goat meat pottage.[229] The book concludes with sections on 14 herbs and spices, from banana leaf to turmeric.[230]

A US edition (1987) was published by Henry Holt as Cooking With Exotic Fruits and Vegetables.[231]

Short books and booklets

Cooking Carrots (1975) va Cooking Spinach (1976)

These two booklets, of 36 pages each, were written for Abson Books, Bristol. They follow the same pattern: brief guidance on choosing, buying and preparing the vegetable, followed by 37 recipes apiece. Both books conclude with advice on growing the vegetable. The spinach book was originally sold with a packet of seeds attached to the cover.[232]

Frantsuzlar yili (1982)

This booklet (16 pages) containing six recipes by Grigson, originally published in Radio Times, was issued to accompany the BBC televideniesi series of the same name, "A calendar of French life in 12 film portraits". Each section of the booklet has a one or two-page introduction by Grigson relating the recipe to a representative French person shown in the series, from the driver of a TGV to the octogenarian head of a bejolais wine-growers collective.[233]

Dishes from the Mediterranean (1984)

This publication is a slim (96-page) hardback, with numerous coloured photographs and line drawings of dishes. It was published by Woodhead-Faulkner for the supermarket chain J. Sainsbury. A new and enlarged edition was published in paperback the following year; it was reissued in 1991 with the title The Cooking of the Mediterranean.[234]

The book contains chapters on Mediterranean ingredients; sauces and relishes; soups; first courses and meze dishes; baliq; meat, poultry and game; rice and bread; and sweet dishes. In addition to descriptions and some historical notes, Grigson includes practical advice such as, for preparing fegato alla veneziana, "Half-freeze the liver so that it is solid enough to cut into thin, tissue-paper slivers".[235] and for a chicken casserole with fifty cloves of garlic (poulet aux cinquante gousses d'ail) reassurance about the number of garlic cloves: "the purée they make is delicious and unidentifiable".[236]

The Cooking of Normandy (1987)

This book, published for Sainsbury's, follows the pattern of the earlier Mediterranean publication. It is a 96-page, extensively illustrated addition to the "Sainsbury Cookbook" series. Line drawings by Mandy Doyle show details of some of the techniques described in the text. The sections cover ingredients and specialities; soups and first courses; fish and shellfish; meat, poultry and game; and desserts and drinks, with a short epilogue.[237] In her introduction Grigson writes, "For me, Normandy cooking is a return to good, basic home dishes, with the added pleasure of tracking down ingredients of the highest quality."[238] Although the book was published for and sold by a supermarket chain, Grigson's recipes include dishes for which such stores would not be expected to stock key ingredients, such as saddle of rabbit (she suggests using chicken if rabbit is not available) for lapin à la moutarde[239] va Shovul uchun fricandeau à la oseille (mentioning spinach as a substitute if necessary).[240]

Contributions to books by others

gilos kosasini stolga bo'yash
Chinese Porcelain Plate with Cherries: one of Jovanna Garzoni 's 17th century paintings on which Grigson comments in The Fruit, Herbs and Vegetables of Italy

A bibliography published in Petis Propos Culinaires in 1991 lists substantial contributions by Grigson to books by other writers: the introduction to The Book of Ingredients by Aidan Bailey, Elizabeth Lambert Ortiz and Helena Radecke;[n 24] one of five introductory essays in The Shell Guide to France, in which she offers guidance on food shops in France—poissonerie, pâtisserie, supermarché etc.—and how to shop in them;[n 25] and a foreword, of about 1600 words, to The French Cheese Book tomonidan Patrick Rance.[n 26]

Uning oldingi so'zida Gillian Riley 's new translation of Giacomo Castelvetro 's 1614 book The Fruit, Herbs and Vegetables of Italy Grigson describes her acquaintance with Castelvetro's work and with the paintings of Jovanna Garzoni which figure largely in the illustrations to the new edition.[21][n 27]

WorldCat lists introductions by Grigson to five other books: The Elle Cookbook (keyinchalik qayta nashr etilgan The Art of French Cuisine);[n 28] ning ingliz nashri The Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook tomonidan Elis suvlari;[n 29] Francis Bissell's A Cook's Calendar;[n 30] A Definitive Catalogue of Toiletries and Comestibles tomonidan Tessa Traeger and Mimi Errington;[n 31] and a new edition of Geoffrey Grigson's Inglizlarning florasi.[n 32]

Posthumously-published anthologies

The Enjoyment of Food: The Best of Jane Grigson (1992)

This 464-page anthology of recipes from Grigson's books was compiled by Roy Fullick and published by Michael Joseph.[241] In a preface Fullick writes that it is intended "both as a tribute to Jane Grigson's culinary skills and scholarship and as a practical cookery book".[242]

The book has an introduction by Elizabeth David, recalling her friendship with Grigson and reminding readers that although it was now taken for granted that Grigson was a classic cookery writer, she had burst on the culinary scene in the late 1960s when "the clarity of the writing, and the confident knowledge ... displayed by this young author were new treats for all of us".[243] David comments that "this varied yet balanced compilation" would remind readers what a loss the cookery world had sustained by Grigson's premature death and inspire them to acquire more of Grigson's works. "Hers are books which can be read in the comfort of one's sitting room as well as used in the kitchen".[244]

The main text is in eight sections, with the titles "At home in England" "At home in France" "Charcuterie", "The Mediterranean", "The Europeans", "The Americas", "India and the Far East" and "Treats and celebrations". There are recipes from writers of the past such as Eliza Acton, Hannah Glasse, Mariya Rundell va Auguste Escoffier, and contemporaries including Elizabeth David, Richard Olney, Julia Child, Alice Waters, Antonio Carluccio and Grigson's daughter Sophie.[245] The recipes are interspersed with Grigson's customary historical background information: there are appearances by Lord Bayron, Chaucer, Kazanova, Lui XIV, and Evelyn, Sydney Smith and others from Food with the Famous.[245]

The book was reissued in 2015 as The Best of Jane Grigson: The Enjoyment of Food by Grub Street publishers, to commemorate the 25th anniversary of Grigson's death.[241]

Jane Grigson's Desserts (1993)

This is one of two books of Grigson recipes published simultaneously by Michael Joseph. It is a 92-page hardback, in a small-page format of 12 cm × 15 cm (5 in × 6 in). It is illustrated throughout with line drawings and contains 50 dessert recipes, all taken from previously published Grigson books. Included are some old recipes such as Robert Sauti 's gooseberry pie and Elizabeth Raffald's orange custards, and many from overseas (redcurrant tart from Austria, strawberry fritters from France, and sweet pumpkin from Turkey) as well as British favourites like summer pudding.[246]

Jane Grigson's Soups (1993)

Uniform with the preceding volume, the book contains 50 recipes from earlier books by Grigson. Well-known classic soups such as bouillabaisse, gazpacho va cock-a-leekie are interspersed with more unusual recipes including apricot and apple, red onion and wine, and cucumber and sorrel.[247]

Pudinglar (1996)

This is a 64-page paperback, in a small format (approximately A6 ) issued one of the "Penguin 60s series" of miniature books along with, among others, Elizabeth David's Peperonata and Other Italian Dishes, and a collection of Sophie Grigson's recipes, From Sophie's Table. Like the 1993 desserts collection, above, it reused material from previously published books by Grigson.[248]

Style, reputation and legacy

De Nieuwe Vismarkt te Amsterdam, tomonidan Emanuel de Vitte; a section of the painting was depicted on the cover of the Penguin edition of Fish Cookery (1994)

Uslub

Along with Elizabeth David, Grigson is widely credited with transforming the British cookery book into something more than a collection of recipes.[249][250] Like David's, Grigson's writing offered not only lists of ingredients and instructions for preparation and cooking, but also interesting historical and social background.[249][250] The obituaries were warm and full of praise for Grigson's style and wide appeal.[251] Yilda Mustaqil, Alan Davidson wrote:

She won to herself this wide audience because she was above all a friendly writer, equipped by both frame of mind and style of writing to communicate easily with them.

However much more she knew about this or that than do the rest of us, she never seemed to be talking down to anyone. On the contrary, she is a most companionable presence in the kitchen; often catching the imagination with a deftly chosen fragment of history or poetry, but never failing to explain the nima uchun shuningdek Qanaqasiga of cookery. How often have I heard people declare that her recipes are not just a pleasure to read—they always ish![32]

Sophie Grigson writes that her mother "thought food was the key to unlocking life"[6] ga kirishda Yaxshi narsalar, Jane stated:

Cooking something delicious is really more satisfactory than painting pictures or throwing pots. ... Food has the tact to disappear, leaving the room and opportunity for masterpieces to come. The mistakes don’t hang on the walls or stand on the shelves to reproach you for ever.[252]

In Elizabeth David's view, Grigson's books have a "clarity of the writing, and the confident knowledge of its subject and its history".[253] Sotsiolog Stephen Mennell believes that Grigson's writing, like David's, should be considered "gastronomic literature", rather than cookery book writing, and therefore read as literature;[254] the cultural sociologists Bob Ashley, Joanne Hollows, Steve Jones and Ben Taylor consider that because of the "considerable erudition" in her work, Grigson's books can be read as "culinary, historical literature", rather than cookery books.[249][255] Geraldene Holt, who thinks Grigson's prose is both lyrical and robust,[256] describes Grigson's writing style as:

forthright yet entertaining, in a similar vein to that of her eminent forebears who include Morton Shand, Edvard Bunyard, Lady Jekyll and Elizabeth David. Jane Grigson's essays are, however, memorably enlivened by relevant information and quotations from a remarkably wide range of sources—poets, novelists, gardeners, earlier food writers and cookery manuals.[257]

According to the writers Hazel Castell and Kathleen Griffin, Grigson tried to show food within its historical, social and cultural context, which was "at the very heart of life, so it was natural that literature, history and poetry should be included alongside recipes".[258] The journalist Deirdre McQuillan considers that the scholarly references are "always there to delight, and never to impress".[259] Rayner sees in her writing a "lightness of touch" with her use of scholarly material.[30] Christopher Driver writes:

Grigson's range was wider than Elizabeth David's, for it extended from fish and fungi to the exotic fruits and vegetables that arrived on the international market in the eighties. She would have been the first to acknowledge that Elizabeth's culinary scholarship was deeper and her precision superior: one of the little-noticed reasons for Mrs David's dominance of her audience in the 1950s was her miraculous sense of lucid detail while Mrs Grigson in the 1970s and 1980s could allow herself in print an element of careless rapture, depending on the commonsense of advanced cooks by then men as well as women.[18]

The literary historian Nicola Humble observes that because of the way Grigson used the historical and literary sources in a more relaxed way, her writing was "less haughty" that David's could be.[260]

Legacy and reputation

In 1991 the Jane Grigson Trust was set up in Grigson's memory. Its stated aim is "to advance the public understanding of food, its cultural and nutritional aspects, and the art of its preparation." The trust funds the annual Jane Grigson Lecture at the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery every July. In 2015, to commemorate the 25th anniversary of her death, the Jane Grigson Trust Award was inaugurated, for the writer of a commissioned first non-fiction book on the subject of food.[261]

It was proposed soon after Grigson's death that a library of books about food and cooking should be set up in her honour, under the Jane Grigson Trust. Sophie Grigson made the core of her mother's personal collection of food books available on permanent loan. The Jane Grigson Library, inaugurated in 1992, was originally housed at the Gildxol kutubxonasi ichida London shahri. By 2005, augmented by donations and bequests, the library had doubled its original size, to more than 4,000 volumes.[262][263] It was rehoused at Oksford Bruks universiteti 2005 yilda.[264] The library is available for use by scholars, researchers or members of the public.[262] In March 2015 the university held a month-long exhibition, Jane Grigson: Good Things, to examine her life and work.[265]

Elizabeth Raffald, one of the food writers Grigson wrote about in English Food

1992 yilda Xalqaro oshpazlik mutaxassislari assotsiatsiyasi tanishtirdi Jane Grigson Award, to honour "a book that exemplifies Jane Grigson's extraordinary ability to put food in a wider cultural context, using diligent but not pedantic scholarship".[266] The first winner was the Canadian writer Margaret Visser, uning ishi uchun The Rituals of Dinner.[267] Other winners include, in 1995, Elizabeth David and Jill Norman, Harvest of the Cold Months: The Social History of Ice and Ices[268][n 33] va 2014 yilda, Yansis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz, for Wine Grapes.[269]

In 2015, on the 25th anniversary of her death, Oziq-ovqat dasturi broadcast a two-part special on Grigson and her impact on the culture of British food.[270][271]

Humble considers that Grigson's work turned the minds of the British public to Sanoat inqilobi British food cooked by Xanna Glasse, Elizabeth Raffald, Mariya Rundell va Eliza Acton; this, Humble states, had "a transformative effect on ... [British] eating habits".[272] She writes that the reason for the effect is that Grigson's writing is reader-friendly and English Food made many dishes fashionable again.[273] The chef Shaun Hill believes Grigson's "legacy is ongoing—it's not finished yet"[274] he considers that even though much of her work was written 40 years ago, it is still relevant to modern readers.[275] The food writer Diana Genri said of Grigson:

Jane Grigson exemplifies what a food writer should be. She is cerebral and practical—it's hard to find practitioners who are both—and she is inclusive. She didn't just want to tell you about cooking and impart knowledge, she wanted you to cook too. She was neither grand nor snobbish. You knew that if you ever got the chance to cook for her she wouldn't mind if you produced something less than perfect.[276]

Izohlar, ma'lumotnomalar va manbalar

Izohlar

  1. ^ Geoffrey Grigson eventually divorced his wife in 1976; he and Jane married in 1976 in Swindon.[14][13]
  2. ^ In the UK during the 1950s, divorce was seen by many as shameful, and many lived out of wedlock but supposedly respectably.[15]
  3. ^ Trôo, in the Loir Valley (not Loire), has numerous troglodit or semi-troglodyte dwellings still in use. It was one of these that the Grigsons purchased. The cave had no electricity, water or gas.[16][17]
  4. ^ The other works on Nosrat's list are Elizabeth David's Italiya taomlari va Frantsuz provinsiyasining oshpazligi; Honey From a Weed tomonidan Patience Gray va Ovqatlanish san'ati tomonidan M. F. K. Fisher. Of these works, Nosrat says "While I've learned almost nothing about cooking technique from them, their writing has collectively taught me more about how cooking, food writing and eating should feel: full of beauty and pleasure."[38]
  5. ^ In one of her columns in Kuzatuvchi she warned her readers against "barn eggs", as it concealed "some concentration camp under the nice Cotswold-tiled words".[42]
  6. ^ Grigson's choices were: Shubert "Qoyadagi cho'pon " Bax "s B minorada massa; Geoffrey Grigson's reading of his own poem "Hollowed Stone" Nelli Lutcher kuylash "Sovuq suv " Yay Ber 's "Quand Au Temple" Shumann "Träumerei " Motsart 's "Bei Männern, welche Liebe fühlen" (from Sehrli nay ); and the Nocturne from Brittenniki Tenor, Shox va torlar uchun serenad.[57]
  7. ^ David's reluctance to broadcast extended to absenting herself from a programme celebrating her work, although Grigson, Mishel Roux, Xyu Jonson, Prue Leith, Joys Molyneux and others took part.[85]
  8. ^ Braised in beef stock and served with a mushroom and cream sauce.[87]
  9. ^ The American edition, published by Knopf, sarlavhasi berilgan The Art of Charcuterie.[107] A paperback version from Knopf, issued in 1986, was titled The Art of Making Sausages, Pâtes, and Other Charcuterie.[108]
  10. ^ The publishers record seven reprintings of the 2001 issue between then and 2010.[96]
  11. ^ Homard à l'américaine is a dish of lobster sauteed in olive oil, with wine, tomatoes, garlic and herbs.[115]
  12. ^ Unlike Grigson's other best-known books, Fish Cookery was not published in an American edition.[125]
  13. ^ Grigson gave the same advice, identically worded, in Yaxshi narsalar the year before, but it was the 1973 iteration that attracted comment.[139][140]
  14. ^ The corporation's research suggests that a closed mussel can be cooked longer, until the shell opens, or can be prised open with a knife, and is safely edible.[140]
  15. ^ The other 28 contributors included Wina tug'ilgan, Alan Devidson, Arto Der Haroutunian, Xyu Jonson, Elisabet Lambert Ortiz, Lynne Reid Banks va Alvinn Uiler.[148]
  16. ^ By "artichoke" Grigson means the globe artichoke; The Quddus artishoki is given its two-word title.[158]
  17. ^ Anglicised form of the French tripe-madame: Sedum refleksi (Oksford ingliz lug'ati).[171]
  18. ^ White soup, mentioned in G'urur va noto'g'ri aqida, was a staple of upper class entertainment in the 18th and early 19th century. It was made from onions, celery and carrot simmered in veal stock, puréed, thickened with ground almonds and enriched with double cream.[173]
  19. ^ Dyumaning Grand Dictionnaire de cuisine (1873), his last book, runs to some 750,000 words, and includes numerous recipes from Brillat-Savarin and other earlier writers.[177]
  20. ^ The Michelin restaurant guides award a maximum of three stars ("Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey") and five place settings (for the most luxurious establishments).[192]
  21. ^ The sauce—sugo signore—is made of caramelised milk and cream.[202]
  22. ^ The dressing-gown is the Viennese term for an egg-and-breadcrumb coating.[203]
  23. ^ Like Elizabeth David and Oziq-ovqat uchun Oksford sherigi, Grigson had no time for the neologism "rarebit".[216][217]
  24. ^ London, Michael Joseph, 1980. OCLC  930864914
  25. ^ London, Michael Joseph, 1986. OCLC  0718122550
  26. ^ London, Macmillan, 1989. OCLC  476157241.
  27. ^ London, Penguin Viking, 1989. OCLC  477139224
  28. ^ London, Michael Joseph, 1981. OCLC  485473060
  29. ^ London, Chatto and Windus, 1984. OCLC  12474109
  30. ^ London, Chatto and Windus, 1985. OCLC  12501640
  31. ^ London, Crabtree & Evelyn, 1986. OCLC  1043087256
  32. ^ London, Folio Society, 1987. OCLC  50396110
  33. ^ The award was posthumous for David; she died in May 1992.[84]

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  255. ^ Jons va Teylor 2001 yil, p. 174.
  256. ^ Oziq-ovqat dasturi: Xurmat: Ikkinchi qism, 2015 yil 11-may, Voqea soat 14: 05–14: 10da sodir bo'ladi.
  257. ^ Xolt 2013, p. 66.
  258. ^ Castell & Griffin 1993 yil, p. 57.
  259. ^ McQuillan 1990 yil, p. 37.
  260. ^ Kamtarona 2006 yil, p. 136.
  261. ^ "Ishonch to'g'risida". Jeyn Grigsonning ishonchi.
  262. ^ a b "Kutubxona". Jeyn Grigsonning ishonchi.
  263. ^ "Jeyn Grigson to'plami". Oksford Bruks universiteti.
  264. ^ Tovus 2015.
  265. ^ "Oksford Bruksdagi" Shisha tank "o'zining" Jeyn Grigson: Yaxshi narsalar "nomli navbatdagi ko'rgazmasini ochadi. Oksford Bruks universiteti.
  266. ^ "Cookbook mukofotlari". Xalqaro oshpazlik mutaxassislari assotsiatsiyasi.
  267. ^ Walker 1992 yil, p. F2.
  268. ^ "Julia Child Book mukofotlari g'oliblari aniqlandi". Sietl Tayms.
  269. ^ Forbes 2014.
  270. ^ "Oziq-ovqat dasturi, Jeyn Grigson - Xurmat: Birinchi qism". BBC.
  271. ^ "Oziq-ovqat dasturi, Jeyn Grigson - Xurmat: Ikkinchi qism". BBC.
  272. ^ Kamtarona 2006 yil, 155, 181-betlar.
  273. ^ Kamtarona 2006 yil, p. 184.
  274. ^ Oziq-ovqat dasturi: Xurmat: Ikkinchi qism, 2015 yil 11-may, Voqea 17: 40–17: 50da sodir bo'ladi.
  275. ^ Oziq-ovqat dasturi: Xurmat: Ikkinchi qism, 2015 yil 11-may, Voqea 17: 20-17: 40 da sodir bo'ladi.
  276. ^ Genri 2015 yil.

Manbalar

Jeyn Grigson tomonidan keltirilgan kitoblar

Boshqa keltirilgan kitoblar

Internet

Jurnallar va jurnallar

Gazetalar

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  • "Yaxshi oshpaz". Kuzatuvchi. 6 may 1979. p. 13.
  • Grigson, Jeyn (1987 yil 23-noyabr). "Tosh davriga oid raqib lagerlarida". The Times. p. 15.CS1 maint: ref = harv (havola)
  • Grigson, Sofi (2008 yil 17-fevral). "Vaqt va joy: Sfi Grigson o'zi o'sgan qishloq xo'jaligi uyida". Sunday Times.CS1 maint: ref = harv (havola)
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  • McQuillan, Daydre (1990 yil 17 mart). "Yaxshi narsalarni ochish uchun iste'dod; Jeyn Grigson shov-shuvsiz yaxshi narxlarni tayyorlashga ishongan va kamdan-kam hollarda she'riyatni ochish uchun yo'qotilgan". Mustaqil. p. 37.CS1 maint: ref = harv (havola)
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  • Robertson, Bryan (1990 yil 16 mart). "Obituar: Jeyn Grigson". Mustaqil. p. 15.CS1 maint: ref = harv (havola)
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  • Spenser, Kolin (1990 yil 17 mart). "Oziq-ovqat va ichimliklar: Jeyn Grigson". Guardian. p. 22.CS1 maint: ref = harv (havola)
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  • "Julia Child Book mukofotlari g'oliblari aniqlandi". Sietl Tayms. 1995 yil 12 aprel. P. F11.

Radio

  • Oziq-ovqat dasturi: Jeyn Grigson - Xurmat: Birinchi qism (Radio). BBC Radio 4. 2015 yil 10-may.
  • Oziq-ovqat dasturi: Jeyn Grigson - Xurmat: Ikkinchi qism (Radio). BBC Radio 4. 2015 yil 11-may.
  • Grigson, Jeyn (1978 yil 8-iyul). Cho'l orollari disklari (Radio). BBC radiosi 4.